Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn |
Page Views: | 3,447 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | peachy spohn on Jul 27, 2013 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
An amazing route with great position! The first pitch (10c) follows a neat dihedral system just right of the second tunnel. Several pitons protect the first dihedral, which is gained by scrambling up the mossy blocks. Keep going up and slightly right to gain the left side of "Beacon Tower."
The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.
I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.
The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.
I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.
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