All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Beacon Rock > S Face

Wild Turkeys

Name: Wild Turkeys
Rating: 4.0

5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British R

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	[Redacted] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
	Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA:	FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn
Page Views:	3,439 total · 26/month
Shared By:	peachy spohn on Jul 27, 2013
Admins:	Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details

The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.

The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.

The NW face and West face routes remain open.

See Closure section below for more details.

Description

An amazing route with great position! The first pitch (10c) follows a neat dihedral system just right of the second tunnel. Several pitons protect the first dihedral, which is gained by scrambling up the mossy blocks. Keep going up and slightly right to gain the left side of "Beacon Tower."

The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.

I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.