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Lander or Ten Sleep? Opinions?

Original Post
Jbuczko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Hey!

I live in Boulder and some friends and I are taking a four day trip to either Ten Sleep or Lander. I've never climbed at either. Any thoughts or opinions on which is "better" for a long weekend?

Thanks!!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

How soon is the trip? Weather may be your guide. If the trip is within the next couple of weeks, Tensleep is the better choice; it is generally a better hot-weather (summer) destination than the primary Lander crags. Tensleep is high up and has good afternoon shade (but you still have to wait until 1:30 in the afternoon to climb at the main zones). If the trip is later in the fall, Sinks would be a better option with lower elevation and more sun. Wild Iris is high up, but the Main Wall (where a first-time visitor would probably want to climb) is in the sun all fricken day and therefore is kind of rough in the summer. Plus, Iris is short and tweaky anyway. Climbing-wise, different people have their prefernces, but it seems that Tensleep is more popular these days, and probably for good reason.

Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237

I'd have to pretty much concur with JCM. I love Wild Iris, and you can find some cooler spots to climb there in the heat (check out Zorro Wall in the a.m. or parts of OK Corral)... But it's hard to compare with Ten Sleep for route quantity, quality, and length. It also depends on what style you like to climb (and what grades)... Wild Iris has a lot of big moves to sharp pockets, and has some really high quality stuff at the higher end (12+). For Ten Sleep, think blue-streaked bomber limestone - also pockety but not as sharp in general.

Sinks is better for late Fall, winter, or spring when the other places are too cold. Everything there is South facing and full bake (except maybe for Killer Cave - again higher end grades).

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Definitely go to Lander. Tensleep already has enough Coloradans. ;) just kiddin'.

Having climbed a decent amount in both places, it's hard to go wrong either way. I'd say Tensleep is the superior summer crag though. Personally, I think the camping and general vibe are a lot nicer too.

Like others have said, 1:30-2PM is when the east-facing side of the canyon begins to catch shade this time of year, but that doesn't mean you have to wait until then to climb. Circus Wall, Psychoactive Wall, Godfather Boulder, and a few other areas all catch morning shade and like clockwork, as those cliffs begin to come into the sun, all the other cliffs will be coming into the shade.

For another awesome AM shade venue, consider Lake Point . It's not in the guidebook (too new) but there's great info on Mountain Project from Mike Snyder, one of the main developers.

Another awesome area providing morning shade is Crazy Woman Cliff. It's not too far from the main upper-canyon areas in Tensleep (~20 min) and provides awesome, free, nearly crag-side camping.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Tensleep.......

Tensleep......

Tensleep.......

Lander, well........

Matt Hartman · · Leavenworth WA · Joined May 2007 · Points: 240

this is the best thread i have ever seen.

stow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 126

I don't think you would run out of shady areas at Wild Iris in 4 days: Zorro, OK Corral, Remuda, and some buttresses at the Aspen Glades later in the afternoon.

Having said that, and just coming back from a trip to both areas, I'm probably going back to Ten Sleep first. Just way more extensive in the summer. And probably better for mixed ability groups.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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