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Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> N Bend & Vicinity
> Exit 38
> Far Side
> Neverland
> (d) Lost Boys
The Plank
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 154
votes
Routes in (d) Lost Boys
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I Can Fly! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Wanna Go Home S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost My Marbles S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Plank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seize the Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sleep or Awake? S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Garth Bruce, Drew Fletcher & Dave Perkins (2005) |
| Page Views: | 13,338 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Aug 29, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.
P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9
P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.
P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.
It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.
It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.
P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9
P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.
P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.
It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.
It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.
Protection
P1 6 bolts, P2 9 bolts, P3 7 bolts. (Includes ancient bolts with giant hangers). All 3 anchors have chains.
There isn't an excellent rappel option for this route. Rappelling from P2 to P1 anchor is impossible due to traversing. If you're sure no one is on I Wanna Go Home, rappel climber's left from the P3 anchor to the P2 anchor on that climb, and make another 35m rap to the ground. If not, rappel to the P2 Plank anchor and then rappel straight down Seize the Day, off the edge.
You can reach the ground in a full 60m (double rope) rappel from the top anchors.
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