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Routes in Lower Tier
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Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cockpit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Pon & Martinov, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 662 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | JF M on Jun 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Begin below the large roof on the right side of the first tier of Pilot Knob. Look for a single bolt under the roof; clip that, pull the roof, move up toward a little tree and continue pretty much straight up past another two bolts and a piton. Anchors sit just below the smaller, further right of two trees on a nice ledge. You may top out just to the left of the anchors.
Variations:
A. Between the second and third bolts, skirt around left for a 5.9 line.
B. Traversing to the right just after the last bolt and clipping the final bolt of the adjacent route (Admiral's Club) adds some difficulty to the final sequence.
Variations:
A. Between the second and third bolts, skirt around left for a 5.9 line.
B. Traversing to the right just after the last bolt and clipping the final bolt of the adjacent route (Admiral's Club) adds some difficulty to the final sequence.
Location
To start, look for the single bolt under the roof on the right side of the formation.
Rappel about 80' from the anchors described above and end up about where you started.
Rappel about 80' from the anchors described above and end up about where you started.
Protection
1 bolt under the roof, and then 2 bolts and a ring piton on the face, along with a bolted anchor (a cold-shut and a hanger with chain) protect this route. You can clip a bolt from an adjacent route when coming over the roof (see below).
It is advisable to bring along a few pieces of gear in the small-to-medium size. Runouts are not long or terribly hard, but a bit unnerving on the lichen-y bits.
A 48" runner on the first bolt under the roof may help with rope drag.
It is advisable to bring along a few pieces of gear in the small-to-medium size. Runouts are not long or terribly hard, but a bit unnerving on the lichen-y bits.
A 48" runner on the first bolt under the roof may help with rope drag.
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