Acadia Otter Cliffs and Cadillac

My wife and I are heading to Acadia for the first time. We're traveling light from CO, meaning not bringing the rack. Are there any sport routes on Cadillac? Also, at Otter Cliffs - how far back from the cliffs are the staples? How much webbing will I need? Can I get away with just webbing and 'biners? Or do the majority of the routes require gear anchors?

Any help is appreciated.

Not much in the way of sport climbing on MDI. I don't think there is much sport climbing under mid 10's on the whole island.

I would say that most of the routes at Otter require gear anchors, but you can still do a fair amount off of the staples and by slinging boulders. Just belay from above so you don't have to bring miles of webbing to extend over the lip.

You can also TR a couple of fun lines over at Great Head. Best to belay from above on those as well. Just makes things a lot easier.

The staples are anywhere from 5-10ft back. I believe you are ok with those until you go over to the Rock Lobster side, which might require a gear anchor. Webbing and biners will be enough to entertain you for a day. But if you want to do multi-day stuff, a light rack will help you experience more.

I do not recall seeing much sport when there, but I also wasn't looking for it.

For awesome 4th class, I highly recommend hiking the Precipice Trail.

Thanks for the help!

We were just in Acadia last weekend and there are anchors for all the climbs from wonder wall to peak preformance the rest of the cliff requires gear there are a few boulders you could sling I had 75 ft of static 9mm and it did everything I wanted it too the cliff edge is sharp I wouldn't use webbing but plenty of people were nothing wrong just not the best option in my opinion

Morning Glory wall @ Great Head has bolted anchors to lower the climber down and allow them to climb up on TR. The Great Head Arete is also NOT to be missed. All lowering the climber down and then TR's but even then if the waves are going its scary as hell and one moment you will not soon forget.

I wouldn't go without a rack. We managed to not lead anything while there, but definitely needed gear to build some anchors. Otherwise you end up needing some longer cord/static line that would weigh quite a bit to bring (so mind as well bring the rack instead).

Now being healthy I'd want to hit the Precipice and other trads areas where the best quality and longer climbs are. Otter cliffs isn't worth flying out from CO for.

We bring our cams on board (in our carry on). Just leave the beaners in the luggage. If you *really* want it, you can find a way to bring a single rack.

We're actually honeymooning around New England, which is where I'm from, for about a week. Our main climbing destination is Rumney where we plan to spend two or three days. We'll eventually make our way to Acadia - more for the camping and atmosphere, but we figured if we're there we'd get on a climb or two. So it's definitely not the focal point of the trip. This is good info though. Thank you everyone!

In that case, rock it in Rumney and Otter Cliffs would be perfect for an afternoon of relaxed TR'ing. Being right on the water is nice, definitely unique to us in-landers. [Since you're there, why not -- but I happily trade another day at Rumney over the longish drive out to Acadia]

Might be busy but the climbs are short so people don't stick to an anchor for too long. :)

There's some harder sport climbs up behind the parking lot at Echo Lake.

Get the guidebook in town in Bar Harbor and talk to some folks who know where to head out.

There isn't any reasonable climbing on Cadillac. There is climbing, but the approach / quality / quantity really isn't worth it.