I am looking for some beta on the south pillar of stetind. I am curious how the pro is on the last few pitches. The info and topo I have found is the grade is E1 6b and the last pitch is the hardest (pitch 15). I am not familiar with the UK system whether this would be considered safe or bold or inbetween. Also i was wondering what conditions you might of climbed it in as in was it seeping or snow held at the top or does it dry quick after a day of rain? I have a topo and any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
TobyA
·
Aug 21, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 0
It is E1 5b not 6b! Big difference. :) The Norwegian grades for the three headwall pitches 6-, 5+, 6- and they are all well protected and easy to protect with an average biggish mountain rack (we had a double set of nuts and double cams in the mid range, although you could do it OK with less if you are braver!
I thought the pitch grades for Stetind were much closer to Lofoten grades (soft-ish) than Kvaløya where they seem to be quite hard! I haven't climbed much in Sweden but if you can do 5+ or 6- in Bohuslän I'm sure you'd be fine on Stetind.
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