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Good places to sport climb this time of year in Central Colorado (between Vail and Denver)

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3point14 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

I will be in Colorado this Thursday - Sunday (Aug 22-Aug 25) for a wedding in Beaver Creek. Since the wedding is Friday, I am planning on heading back to Denver Saturday morning and I wanted to get in some climbing before I fly back home Sunday evening. Weather permitting, where are the prime places to climb this time of year between Vail and Denver? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to find a guide close to the places that are recommended? I have to pack light, so I am only able to bring my harness, shoes, grigri, and possibly some quickdraws. I would prefer to stick to routes 5.11b and below.

Any suggestions are welcome!

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Not really in the area you mentioned, but we just hit up the Monestary and the Ironclads on light days over the last couple weeks out there, both of which are really cool spots, and both of which have free camping in the area. They're near Estes Park, but they both have tons of routes and different areas, and certainly have climbs in the grade-range you mentioned.

The Monestary in particular was really cool...tons of fins, towers, caves, chimneys and caverns. No ideas for between Vail and Denver, but I definitely recommend those two areas.

Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80

Maybe try Ra? It's kind of alpine-y feeling multi-pitch sport climbing near Empire (off of I-70 heading up Berthoud Pass.) It's at a higher elevation so it's good for hot days. I've only been once, and wasn't a huge fan (but that was more because of a shitty partner issue) but there's a lot there. There's a mini guidebook from Fixed Pin for Ra....I think it's even a free download.

The only other thing I can think of also in the area you're looking at is that multi-pitch sport climb near Frisco called "Royal Flush." Never done it, but could be worth checking out.

Have fun!

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790
mountainproject.com/v/clear…
Close to Denver and I-70.
Easy approaches.
Lower in elevation? if that be a concern.
Good luck climbing :)
3point14 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Thank you for the great responses everyone! After reading these suggestions, I am all the more excited to arrive in Colorado!

Ben: I am familiar with both Monastery and Ironclads, but I have not been to either one. The first and only time time I was in Colorado, I went top-roping at Jurassic Park, which I believe is off of CO 7. Next time I am close to Estes Park, I will stop by both Monastery and Ironclads. Thanks for the suggestions!

Kbird: Ra sounds intriguing, but many of the climbs might be out of my league (for now). Royal Flush sounds like it would be right up my alley--I am going to look more into it. Thank you!

Tom-Rex: I like the looks of Clear Creek Canyon. If I can find the right guide, this may be my choice. Thanks!

Steve J · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

Easy approach (like, 30 seconds) for some quick climbs on Homestake Road up the hill out of Minturn off Highway 24. Cool little crag. Further up Homestake there's, supposedly, another sweet spot with a lot of sport climbs, but I've never had enough time to dig deep for it. Good bouldering at the Klettergarden just off Highway 24 back toward Minturn, too, if you're into that sorta thing.

Good luck!

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

There's literally 100's of folks in CCC each weekend. Don't need a guide, just ask to tag along. Offer beers.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I just climbed Playin' Hooky on the Creekside crag on CCC. While super moderate, it was four pitches of bolted awesome. Check it out!

JVW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 80

10 mile canyon, look up the info on this site

chosspector · · San Juans, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 1,296

monitor rock

Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80
There's literally 100's of folks in CCC each weekend. Don't need a guide, just ask to tag along. Offer beers.

Agreed! You could probably post on mp now and secure a partner for Clear Creek that way. It's a great climbing area and very convenient. There's a great guidebook for the canyon as well that can be found at local climbing stores (REI, Bent Gate, etc....)however the canyon is usually packed and someone will have the book and let you borrow it for a minute, I'm sure.

If you go to Clear Creek, I'd recommend Wall of the 90s or Little Eiger.

Have fun!!
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
3point14 wrote:Thank you for the great responses everyone! After reading these suggestions, I am all the more excited to arrive in Colorado! Ben: I am familiar with both Monastery and Ironclads, but I have not been to either one. The first and only time time I was in Colorado, I went top-roping at Jurassic Park, which I believe is off of CO 7. Next time I am close to Estes Park, I will stop by both Monastery and Ironclads. Thanks for the suggestions! Kbird: Ra sounds intriguing, but many of the climbs might be out of my league (for now). Royal Flush sounds like it would be right up my alley--I am going to look more into it. Thank you! Tom-Rex: I like the looks of Clear Creek Canyon. If I can find the right guide, this may be my choice. Thanks!
If you are at the Beav, you'd waste a ton of time driving to the Estes Park valley. Stick with CCC.

If you plan to do royal flush, be advised that the monsoon season has been slightly overkill this year. Get crackin early!
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Scott McMahon wrote: If you plan to do royal flush, be advised that the monsoon season has been slightly overkill this year. Get crackin early!
Agreed - it seems like almost everyone I know who has done Royal Flush has a rain/lightning story to tell.... It is hard to see the weather coming in from the route. We got pounded by rain on the upper pitches at 11:30 in the morning a few weeks ago - the slab gets 5.scary in the wet. Granted, it was cloudy when we started. Super fun route though - worth doing for sure.
3point14 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Wow, I didn't expect this many responses! I appreciate all the help.

I just arrived in Denver and will be heading to Avon in just a bit. I might stop by CCC to scope out the area. Weather permitting on Saturday, I will drop by CCC mid-to-late morning and take some pictures. If I could get on a climb, that would be great. Not only offering beer, I will also offer my photography services to anyone that belays me. If I find the right wall/route, I could set the route, anchor somewhere at the top, and take pictures of the following person/people climbing up.

If anyone plans to be in the area on Saturday, feel free to say, "Hello." I will be the one with the silver and yellow Pentax K-01 camera and blue Alps internal frame pack. If I see too many people climbing and get a wild hair (or is it hare?) up my bum, I might be the idiot attempting to boulder without a crash pad (jkin). Time permitting, I will try to see some of the other places mentioned.

Thanks everyone for making me feel welcome--this camaraderie is why I began climbing in the first place!

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

If you are set on going to Clear Creek, Little Eiger, Highwire and the Canal Zone usually have good size crowds and you can almost certainly talk someone into a belay.
Wall of the 90s is a better crag but not as reliably busy.
Have fun

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

From the Beav, not far from Rifle. In my opinion, definitely worth the additional driving time going in the opposite direction.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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