Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 50 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Criag Luebben and John Shireman |
Page Views: | 3,743 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Jones on May 14, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This used to be the furthest left route on the crag. Now it is just to the left of Rambo Santa with one bolted line left of this line. Hike up left just past a large knocked down and burnt tree. This is a steep friction/slab climb and in my opinion it's sandbagged. I would give it at least a .10a/b. (note: I've seen another name given to this route in other guides, not sure what it is though). [Apparently, this is also known as "Wonderin' Where the Lions Are."]
There's a diagonal crack and slab going out to the right, follow this about 15 feet to your first bolt on the face. The first crux is getting the second bolt on a thin face. After the second bolt, you have good holds through some choppy rock (place extra pro here). At the third bolt, move through another crux on the thin face again and finish at the chained anchor (75 feet).
This route is also a good toprope setup if someone has lead it first. You only need a single 50m rope.
There's a diagonal crack and slab going out to the right, follow this about 15 feet to your first bolt on the face. The first crux is getting the second bolt on a thin face. After the second bolt, you have good holds through some choppy rock (place extra pro here). At the third bolt, move through another crux on the thin face again and finish at the chained anchor (75 feet).
This route is also a good toprope setup if someone has lead it first. You only need a single 50m rope.
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