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Brother of Fortune
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 49
votes
Routes in 3. The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Octagon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Special Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick |
| Page Views: | 2,200 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Though this is a link up, I wanted to add it as a separate pitch so people would know its here. As described below, this route makes for the easiest 5.10 climbing on the Right Wall, as well as delivering very consistent climbing at that grade. The line is riddled with cool holds, and It also avoids the rather awkward crux of BFAM which is now suffering from some deteriorating holds at the top of it's crux.
Climb BFAM to the break at 2/3 height just below the small dihedral. Do not clip the bolt in the mini dihedral to your right, but instead move just left on large holds and a very good #0 or #00 TCU placement (Green C3’s work well) in a horizontal seam. You can place a couple TCUs here as it is a little ways and a .9+ move to some jugs before your next good gear. Continue moving up the shallow dihedral of Soldier of Fortune passing good gear (#2 or other options) below the little .10a move which guards the anchor.
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