Is this bolt cracked? At Safe Harbor, PA

This is the first bolt on Machismo - a very cool 11c at Safe Harbor, PA. Machismo is one of the few outstanding climbs at an otherwise dumpy crag.

The bolt is a total spinner. Regardless, I clipped it and went for the top. On rappel, I decided to take a closer look and saw something a bit concerning.



Is that a crack/split running down the length of the bolt? Allow me to rephrase. That bolt has, without a doubt, a split down the shaft. The question - Is that part of the design (a single-split sleeve which expands?) or a defect from over tightening? I don't know of any bolts with this specific design, so I leave it to the greater wisdom of the MP community.

alot of 5-piece bolts have a metal sleeve over the bolt that has a seam in it. That is all that is. The bolt is fine, except for the whole spinning thing. Did you try tightening it?

Yup! that just looks like the seam in the sleeve. If the bolts just spins when you tighten it, but a small crowbar under it and push up as you tighten. Another way to do this is to clip in a quick draw and pull straight out on it(clipping it to your harness and leaning back is best) while you tighten.

You should go to the hardware store and llok at anchor bolts. Take your time. Look at the pieces that are part of a bolt and how it works.bed Funny thing that a 3/8 rawl is not 3/8 but a smaller bolt with a sleeve.

Yes, its the sleeve of a 5 pc. bolt, which is rolled and therefore has a seam. Nothing to worry about. Wouldn't hurt to hit it back into the rock and re-tighten if its a spinner. Assuming the hole is deep enough. 5 pc.s will be spinners if the hole is not deep enough.

That bolt is fine. Tap it in and tighten it to about 20 ft lbs (or less). What is more odd in this photo is that this bolt apparently replaced what looks like a totally good hilti-kb2.

Additional note regarding that bolt: the seam you see is only visible on the longer versions (because it is the proximal metal sleeve of the two pieces which are separated by the blue crush piece

Agree with what others said: to fix, loosen the bolt head moderately - tap it in deeper - then re-tighten.

In my experience, and I've used a ton of each, the Hilti Kb3 sets more consistently/better, and is a way less finicky bolt than the 5 piece. That's the only wedge bolt that I can say that about though.

Better a cracked bolt, than a bolted crack!

Bryan G wrote:Better a cracked bolt, than a bolted crack!

+1!

But on a serious note, thanks for the insight. I didn't have a wrench with me (other than on my nut tool) but the bolt couldn't get any tighter from nut-tool wrenching. It could probably stand to be hammered in again. Even more problematic.... I don't own a torque wrench and won't be visiting the crag again any time soon. Hopefully someone reads this and can pop over to check it out.

Haha oh man this post scared me. Took a whip on that bolt on Saturday, didn't notice the seam! Phew. Thanks for checking, Jon

"What a dumpy crag. OMG is this bolt cracked???!!!"
That's adorable. Next time you're at Céüse make sure to keep an eye out for "cracked" bolts. Keep us posted.