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Questionable Timing
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Questa Dome
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Aero Questa T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ancient Ones, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Another Pretty Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Con Questa Libre T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jonny Questa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Questando La Via Sin Arboles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Questar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Question of Balance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Questionable Timing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sequestered T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tostadas Comquesta T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Kevin Boyko, Nick Levin, Peter Yeo |
| Page Views: | 2,995 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Boyko on Aug 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
Edited after it went completely free:
This climb may be considered new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.
Pitch 1: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it, go left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a bolt anchor. (full 60 meter pitch is great or break it up under the small roof).
Pitch 2: 5.11+ PG13 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty buttonhead out right.
Now tread left to the small feature jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and very thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral.
(UPDATE: The beginning of this pitch now has an additional bolt through the crux and the old buttonhead has been replaced thanks to Josh Smith and Jason Halladay. There is still some runout climbing on the easier top, but it is much safer.)
Climb to the ledge, protect it, and continue towards the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.
Pitch 3: 5.12- 70ft:
From what I understand this pitch is called Questober? I was told it had not gone free? Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. Unless you are 9 years old: the crack is less-than-fingers. Stem up, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung even less-than-fingers dihedral. (Use a 00 or 000 C3, or 00 TCU. It's small)
Build an anchor at a small tree after the lip.
If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges
or rope up and climb to the top at 5.5.
Walk off.
This climb may be considered new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.
Pitch 1: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it, go left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a bolt anchor. (full 60 meter pitch is great or break it up under the small roof).
Pitch 2: 5.11+ PG13 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty buttonhead out right.
Now tread left to the small feature jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and very thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral.
(UPDATE: The beginning of this pitch now has an additional bolt through the crux and the old buttonhead has been replaced thanks to Josh Smith and Jason Halladay. There is still some runout climbing on the easier top, but it is much safer.)
Climb to the ledge, protect it, and continue towards the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.
Pitch 3: 5.12- 70ft:
From what I understand this pitch is called Questober? I was told it had not gone free? Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. Unless you are 9 years old: the crack is less-than-fingers. Stem up, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung even less-than-fingers dihedral. (Use a 00 or 000 C3, or 00 TCU. It's small)
Build an anchor at a small tree after the lip.
If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges
or rope up and climb to the top at 5.5.
Walk off.
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