cracks not to miss
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Hey guys and gals I'm planning to be in Moab and Zion for a week in early October with some climbing buddies. Will be doing some tower bagging but will have several mornings and afternoons free |
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Not really, the grades cluster to the point of absurdity at five ten and up. there are a handful of worthwhile routes below five ten... but they are less than a handful. if you went to snow canyon state park you would be much better served. |
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In regards to Zion, I agree with Rob...the Headache might be the one route maybe one of you can lead (prob going to be harder than what you are used to), it has been featured in Climbing and Rock and Ice. Classic 3 pitches of 5.9-10 sandstone crack. Here is a link to the great Zion free climbs. They get harder from the Headache. Wallstreet in Moab has some easy cracks to go along with your tower bagging. Here are the Snow Canyon climbs don't have many good crack pitches beyond Atomic Indian, which is 5.11, but Bluff Street in St. George has easy 5.9's and 10's. Snow Canyon has several good mixed climbs and the grading is much softer than Zion typically. Living on the Edge has been featured in the Mags. Good Luck |
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I feel the need to beat Locker to it... |
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just checked out the headache.. looks awesome! Any others? |
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specifically near moab? |
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The best cracks near Moab are on the towers....if you are going tower bagging, you are set, Primrose Dihedrals, Washer Woman (In Search of Suds), North Face (not chimney) of Castleton, both routes on Lighthouse, Fine Jade, Jah Man...those are my favorites, all of them ten times better than Stolen Chimney (Ancient Art) |
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Thank you for all the help! Sunny skies and good climbing to all of ya |
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I second the Castle Valley routes. |
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I've done a couple of trips to Zion/Moab and its an awesome area - cracks are not hard to find but like previous posters have mentioned, they largely start at 5.10. The good news is that they're often splitters, so the pro is usually pretty straightforward/frequent. I find that I'm more willing to try harder stuff if I can easily down-aid off of it, or place a quick piece right in front of me if im going to fall. |