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Shake
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 34 votes
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,554 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Nov 19, 2005 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Shake starts about 10' left of Greener Pastures, the obvious crack climb on the steep face just left of Desire. Climb the crack off the ground to a stance with a small ceiling and horizontal crack on your right. The crux is moving up and right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Move a bit right of the bolt and then basically straight up on fun, thin, face and up and over the final bulge to the top.
I thought I was on a route shown in Mike Carville's guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe called "Light Headed" which is 5.8. In the middle of trying the crux, I was told it was 5.10a, which is much more reasonable.
A fun variation is to climb from the ground straight up on the face directly below the little ceiling and step up onto the face from there. It's about the same difficulty but height would be a factor as it's a long reach to holds above the ceiling. A fun toprope is starting just right of Shake in the vertical crack and climb straight up to the top. You do use some face holds from Shake in the middle section but try and stay right where you can. Maybe 10b or so.
I thought I was on a route shown in Mike Carville's guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe called "Light Headed" which is 5.8. In the middle of trying the crux, I was told it was 5.10a, which is much more reasonable.
A fun variation is to climb from the ground straight up on the face directly below the little ceiling and step up onto the face from there. It's about the same difficulty but height would be a factor as it's a long reach to holds above the ceiling. A fun toprope is starting just right of Shake in the vertical crack and climb straight up to the top. You do use some face holds from Shake in the middle section but try and stay right where you can. Maybe 10b or so.
7 Comments