Which axes for my intended use?

Just to preface this post, I've been away from ice climbing for the last 8+ years. My last set of tools I owned were Charlet-Moser Axars, and when I stopped climbing it was around the time that leashless climbing started becoming mainstream. I was leading WI4+/5 with my Axars and BD Sabertooths or Charlet Moser Grade 8 mono-points.

Becasue of going back to school, a career, and then living in a beach community among other things, I haven't had the opportunity to climb. Now that I'm back in Denver things have changed!

In the winter I like climbing water ice, and will probably start pretty mellow this winter just to get back into it, may mess with dry-tooling if it happens, but at the moment it's not really a priority. Also stoked to get back into alpine stuff nect spring here in Colorado. Think routes like Dreamweaver, All Mixed Up, Kieners, Notch, Rigid Designator, etc. (all routes I had soloed in the past except for the Rigid Designator.(

So I'm leaning toward a pair of Quarks. They seem to be on eof the most versatile tools out there, and are obviously awesome for alpine stuff, but was wanting feedback on how they climb WI4 & WI5 leashless? I've never climbed leashless, and am sure it's a whole new skill set and takes the commitment level up a few notches. Nomics are also a consideration, but just don't think they are the best tool for lower angle stuff below WI3, and although some liek them for alpine, I'm not sure how they'd perform.

Obviously, since it's August, I can't really go out and demo any of them, but there's deals right now since it's off season, and want to pull the trigger now and take advantage.

Thanks in advance for all of your advice and recommendations!

I have Vipers. They're good all around tools.
A friend has the Cassin X-All Mountain, and really likes them. He's pretty strong on steep ice, and moderate mixed with them. Good prices can be found on them as well.

Hey Scott,
Just called and left you a message. I know you'd really like to buy a pair of tools right away, and no doubt Petzl Quarks are some of the best tools out there for the kind of stuff you like.

I would wait since you havent climbed on leashless tools. I own 3 pairs of ice tools so when we go out climbing you get to play with them. Most of the time you'll meet others at the ice-fall and most people are nice enough to let you take a few swings with their tool.

See what feels right to you, since everyone's body type and climbing style is different, some tools just may suit you better.

Ali Jaffri wrote:Hey Scott, Just called and left you a message. I know you'd really like to buy a pair of tools right away, and no doubt Petzl Quarks are some of the best tools out there for the kind of stuff you like. I would wait since you havent climbed on leashless tools. I own 3 pairs of ice tools so when we go out climbing you get to play with them. Most of the time you'll meet others at the ice-fall and most people are nice enough to let you take a few swings with their tool. See what feels right to you, since everyone's body type and climbing style is different, some tools just may suit you better.

th trig rest on the quarks breaks pretty easily. its just a plastic piece of junk.

go with nomics. you wont regret it.

I have to say nomics. I've used them on everything from moderate climbs like liberty ridge on rainier to the technical north face of Johannisberg and plenty of WI 4/5 ice inbetween. They also work great for mixed and dry tooling. Though not the very best tool for alpine they are the best all around.

give the Camp X-all mountain tools a look as well. they climb everything well.

Scott B Parker wrote: Good plan! I'll try and exercise some restraint and take your advice! Now I just have to wait for it to get cold!

superkick wrote:. go with nomics. you wont regret it.

I kinda thing axes are like climbing shoes. You gotta try em on. Everyone loves the nomics, but for my hands I wasn't digging the swing. Vipers just felt better for my smaller hands.

Try a couple and see what feels the best and what best matches your objectives.

I lurve my Nomics as an all around tool (I also do a lot of drytooling beyond on top of ice climbing), but I think the Quarks look tres sexy as well and probably a better all around tool in the alpine world.

As for switching over to leashless, just do it. I started with the old Vipers modified with the fang and the strike to be leashless. The Quarks will be far superior for both climbing leashless and getting on harder ice.

But as stated, try before you buy. If you're switching out from old tools you may not like switching over to something with a far more agressive pick angle....or you may love it.