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[Redacted]
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 158
votes
Routes in [Redacted]
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[Redacted] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Asleep At The Wheel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heavenly Ladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orifice Fish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poorly Groomed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Salal Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 12,308 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.
Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.
Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.
Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address
Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.
Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.
Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address
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