Favorite crack climbs in the Southeast
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Last week I flailed my way up a 5.8 fist crack. Thus I realized that I don't really have any technique for jamming. |
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You should head to the Asheville area. The following areas will have the most concentration of cracks with easy access: |
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Brandon.Phillips wrote:Last week I flailed my way up a 5.8 fist crack. Thus I realized that I don't really have any technique for jamming. I live in Alabama and am willing to travel and jump on anything from 5.6 to 5.11. Specifically I want to put together a moderate tick list that will make me a better crack climber.I'm not worth a damn as a crack climber either, but these are some I've found to be good practice: Nappy - 5.7 - T-Wall Nutrasweet - 5.7 - T-Wall Jay Walker - 5.7 - T-Wall Sanscrit - 5.8 - T-Wall Passages - 5.8 - T-Wall Golden Locks - 5.8+ - T-Wall Graham's Crack - 5.8 - Steele Stepping Out - 5.7+ - Steele Crack a Smile - 5.8 - Sand Rock Faith - 5.8 - Sand Rock Walking the Dog - 5.9- - Sand Rock Pumpkin Patches - 5.9 - Jamestown T-Wall is the southeast's Crack Climbing University; the routes I've listed are just some of the easier lines. When you're ready to up the ante, there's plenty more there that will have you huffing and puffing. JL |
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some of the best cracks i've been in were at the new....plus the rock quality will blow your mind |
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Knifeblade (5.8)crack at Griffin Falls. |
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I'll second the vote for the New (and I live just a few minutes from Looking Glass). The "cracks" at LG are great, but most of them are not pure crack climbs, though they probably are best granite cracks in the SE (off-limit area's not withstanding). |
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I'm glad I saw this thread because I have the same question. I'm fairly new to climbing, but here are my favorites that I've had the chance to get on: |
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Jamestown has some really good cracks. The odyssey, womb, sperm, and most everything at the south face of looking glass are good. Most of the really good ones in NC are closed. Sunset has a lot of cracks and is really good in the mornings this time of year. RJs Gold is one of my favorites. |
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Steele....Bird's Nest. |
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As people have said. T Wall has a lot of solid crack climbs that will keep your busy for a couple weekends in a variety of grades. Lower Leda has some moderates cracks as well and an awesome 5 10 finger crack that's a lot of fun. |
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I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :D |
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5.samadhi wrote:I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :DThis summer has actually been pretty mild. At this point it seems like a climbing trip is more likely to be screwed because of rain than heat. |
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ze_dirtbag wrote:some of the best cracks i've been in were at the new....plus the rock quality will blow your mind New Yosemite 5.9 Supercrack 5.9 Jaws 5.9 Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9 The Entertainer 5.10- Rapscallions Blues 5.10The New has very few, albeit awesome, splitters. Most are more akin to face climbs that require a bit of crack technique here and there. My favorite moderates (~5.10 and under, solid pro, etc.) thus far and aren't on the above list: Fantasy 5.8 Supercrack 5.9 Tree Route 5.10- Springboard 5.10- Burning Calves 5.10 The Red has some real standouts, too. The cracks there tend to be more consistent, with more splitters than the New, IMO. Unfortunately, some of the absolute gems (including Roadside Attraction) are in closed or heavily restricted areas and cannot be accessed. |
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BrianWS wrote: The New has very few, albeit awesome, splitters. Most are more akin to face climbs that require a bit of crack technique here and there. My favorite moderates (~5.10 and under, solid pro, etc.) thus far and aren't on the above list: Fantasy 5.8 Supercrack 5.9 Tree Route 5.10- Springboard 5.10- Burning Calves 5.10 The Red has some real standouts, too. The cracks there tend to be more consistent, with more splitters than the New, IMO. Unfortunately, some of the absolute gems (including Roadside Attraction) are in closed or heavily restricted areas and cannot be accessed.Why'd they close roadside crag? Such a shame, so many good routes there. |
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5.samadhi wrote:I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :DRead a little more carefully and you'll see that nobody's telling the OP to go to T-Wall or anywhere else at any particular time. He asked for a ticklist, and he got several. JL |
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RForbus wrote: Why'd they close roadside crag? Such a shame, so many good routes there.Because people kept fuckin' it up. Hanging hammocks in trees and letting their dogs shit everywhere. It we're including the New, there is bridge buttress w/ Jaws and Zag and a bunch of other worth while cracks. |
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Nothing at Suck Creek? |
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2nd pitch of Odyssey at Looking Glass is not moderate but fantastic crack. |
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Ryan Williams wrote: Because people kept fuckin' it up. Hanging hammocks in trees and letting their dogs shit everywhere. It we're including the New, there is bridge buttress w/ Jaws and Zag and a bunch of other worth while cracks.Thats just sad. I hate when people don't respect places that are a privilege. Such ignorance. |
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Brandon, |
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Unfortunately Ryan's description applies to T-Wall on a crowded fall/winter/spring weekend. |