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Breaking out of V2 to V3

Original Post
John Padilla · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Hello Everyone,

As a father to a 8 month old son, I don't get to climb as much as I'd like. I have a 8'x12' bouldering wall in my backyard at a 25 degree angle. I've been climbing pretty solid v2 at the gym, and occasionally I can pull off a v3. I was wondering if anyone out there had any recommendations to become a solid v3 climber. Should I do some more hangboard work outs or maybe possibly just work on my technique? Any help is greatly appreciated

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Maybe strap the kid to your chest with one of those papoose things while doing v2, then remove child for the v3 send.

Live the dream.

Shawn Heath · · Forchheim, DE · Joined May 2008 · Points: 28,380

I recommend finding a buddy with a young kid with whom you can train. You'll both have similar goals and understanding for lack of time, and you may thereby be able to maximize your time spent climbing while you're supposed to be climbing. Warm-up with traverses and work on concentrated foot placement, then climb some V1s, V2s, and finally your V3s or v4s (or even 5s). In between attempts, instead of sitting around, visualize what you did and imagine how you could do it better, then get your ass back on the wall and do it! Repeat until you're totally exhausted or your wife tells you you need to be back home. Watch other climbers and how they do what you're trying to do. Preferably watch the strong climbers and how they use your projects as a warm-up. Pay attention to how efficiently they climb (they don't want to wear themselves out on a V3) and do what they do. Maybe even ask them for pointers, or even join their group, but don't sit around half the time like they may. Your time is likely more limited.

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

I couldn't tell if it was technique or strength that kept me in the v2-3 range. After 4 weeks doing lock offs, finger training, and off-set pull ups on a hang board, I was able to do my first v5 on plastic.

Climb with other people! Try finding a couple people stronger than you to climb with. Even better, if that person is cool with coaching you. Have them video tape you while on route. The tape is a wonderful review tool!

You will get it man!

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590
Shawn Heath wrote:Watch other climbers and how they do what you're trying to do. Preferably watch the strong climbers and how they use your projects as a warm-up. Pay attention to how efficiently they climb (they don't want to wear themselves out on a V3) and do what they do. Maybe even ask them for pointers, or even join their group, but don't sit around half the time like they may. Your time is likely more limited.
Better yet, watch the WEAK climbers who still climb harder than you, that's where you'll see the best technique.
jeffozozo · · santa clara, utah · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 536

Just be patient. Climb and enjoy yourself. Put some smaller holds on your woodie. Use your feet more.

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

...oh and buy Solutions. $180 shooz are definately key to breaking the V3 barrier.

John Padilla · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replies! I really appreciate it! Now if only I had those solutions...

erik kapec · · prescott, az · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 205

Outside I can onsight v2-3, but in the gym Iv been able to onsight some problems up to v7. It depends on who set the route, and a bunch of other factors but I just climb routes that look fun and draw my attention.

Dont really pay attention to the grades and just start doing problems, eventually you learn new moves and get past the plateau.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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