The Things We Do For Love
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C2
Avg: 1 from 3 votes
Type: | Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Andy Roberts and Jason Keplo 2000 |
Page Views: | 1,216 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Mar 7, 2009 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route packs a fair punch in its 100 feet. Begin at an overhanging crack on the right side of the tower. (when viewed from the road)
Pitch one Climb awkward C2 off the ground on less than stellar rock to a left facing corner. Continue up the corner to the notch at C2/A1. The anchor situation here is grim. There is a faded sling attached to what is presumably an anchor at the notch but the anchor itself is buried beneath a pile of rock and dirt that has fallen on it since the FA. I built an uninspiring anchor and decided to just clip it and continue on to the top. I had major rope drag so plan accodingly.
Pitch Two Climb up and right past a bolt and a piton to a horizontal crack system that takes you out onto the face and leads to the summit. C2
Pitch one Climb awkward C2 off the ground on less than stellar rock to a left facing corner. Continue up the corner to the notch at C2/A1. The anchor situation here is grim. There is a faded sling attached to what is presumably an anchor at the notch but the anchor itself is buried beneath a pile of rock and dirt that has fallen on it since the FA. I built an uninspiring anchor and decided to just clip it and continue on to the top. I had major rope drag so plan accodingly.
Pitch Two Climb up and right past a bolt and a piton to a horizontal crack system that takes you out onto the face and leads to the summit. C2
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