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Davy Jones' Locker
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 19
votes
Routes in The Sorcerer
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Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gorilla Wrestling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stars and Stripes alt start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tradewinds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt (1981) |
| Page Views: | 7,890 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Aug 15, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
An amazing, splitter hand to thin hand slanting flake/crack goes for 70 feet up to an undercling/jam traverse (#3 Camalot under the roof with sling). Then a good chicken-wing and stem rest with a finger size piece. Reach out right and get a small TCU and turn on the POWER. Hold on and place one of your smaller Stoppers higher in the crack/seam out right. If there is chalk on the crux holds, then you are totally stoked! Crimp and crank your way up sequential edges that get better and aim for the top of the headwall and welcome jugs. Make sure your last pieces are bomber 'cause its big air if you blow the sequence!
Once you are standing above the angle of repose, it's EZ to the bolted anchor, which is 3 older bolts but seems okay.
Once you are standing above the angle of repose, it's EZ to the bolted anchor, which is 3 older bolts but seems okay.
Location
The 5.7 approach pitch up the right side of the big block under the route is actually fun and interesting (I think). My Aussie comrades, being unaccustomed to chimney techniques, thought otherwise. A 60M rope lowers off with a little excess. It is possible to rap off the top of the approach pitch using 1 60M with some effort but I would recommend bringing 2 ropes or 1 70M!!
Per Davy Jones' Locker: Continue down the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Pass the Fire Wall and Pyromania. You will see two chimneys on your right to the north. Take the shorter steeper left chimney, climb up to a tree. Perhaps haul packs to here. Continue to the top and then have second send up the bag once they climb up.
Per Davy Jones' Locker: Continue down the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Pass the Fire Wall and Pyromania. You will see two chimneys on your right to the north. Take the shorter steeper left chimney, climb up to a tree. Perhaps haul packs to here. Continue to the top and then have second send up the bag once they climb up.
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