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Burl Ives Is Dead
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 93
votes
Routes in Illigitimus Rotundus AKA: Fat Bastard
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40 Days in the Haze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Burl Ives Is Dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Burr Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Daddy Fat Sacks S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Equipped by Eric (Shaggy) Johnson, 2012. Cleaning and FA, Mike Snyder, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 3,025 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Jul 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Scamper up the crack start and onto the face. Swim through giant grapefruit and football sized pockets until the angle tips back a bit. Smaller jugs offer easy clipping stances and set you up for the Wild Iris-like ending up the white bulge. Very fun with different solutions for different sized climbers.
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