Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Shannon Falls
> Papoose
> Main Area, Frontside
Centerfold
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 120
votes
Routes in Main Area, Frontside
|
|
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Duet for Two Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
Forgive My Trespasses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Mercurial Crossing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Pin Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,431 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Aug 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.
P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.
P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.
P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst
P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.
P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.
P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst
Location
This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.
11 Comments