Kicking It Old Testament
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Daniel Trugman, Jason Halladay, August 2010 |
Page Views: | 1,195 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Aug 3, 2010 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This route climbs the east face of Juno Tower, climber's right of "Pork Swords" and "Little Viking". While it's probably not quite as good as the other two routes on the tower, "Kicking It Old Testament" still provides some intriguing movement at a more moderate grade.
For the first ascent we started by anchoring the belayer to the belay bolt on the grassy ledge below the obvious headwall. We later decided just going straight up, from ground-level, up vegetated fourth-class terrain to the base of the wall is best.
Easily turn the initial roof on its left side and make a technical traverse back right on thin holds. Find the jugs and rest up before firing the steeper but well-featured upper crux.
This route could use a bit more scrubbing, especially on the lower half of the route (I'll try to do some more next time I'm in the area). That said, the rock is pretty solid, and moves are fun, so if you can deal with a bit of lichen, then the route is worth trying.
For the first ascent we started by anchoring the belayer to the belay bolt on the grassy ledge below the obvious headwall. We later decided just going straight up, from ground-level, up vegetated fourth-class terrain to the base of the wall is best.
Easily turn the initial roof on its left side and make a technical traverse back right on thin holds. Find the jugs and rest up before firing the steeper but well-featured upper crux.
This route could use a bit more scrubbing, especially on the lower half of the route (I'll try to do some more next time I'm in the area). That said, the rock is pretty solid, and moves are fun, so if you can deal with a bit of lichen, then the route is worth trying.
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