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Routes in Inferno - Atlantis Area
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Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blue Alien (Mid Cliff). T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cemetary Gates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fiddler On The Roof (Mid Cliff) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart Of Darkness (Mid Cliff) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Your Face (Mid-Cliff Start, R of Upper Inferno) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Indian Summer (Lower Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Workshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Matt Peer and Greg Stemley, May 29, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 13,360 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jul 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Low angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.
Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab ("Cathonian Slab" ) with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts (the climb " Brimstone" variously rated between 5.5 and 5.7) to the tree ledge where the route actually starts.
Alternately, hike steeply up to the left of this slab, then make a move back right (beware pine needles and leaves !) to gain the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab and walk right to below the start.
Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.
I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.
For ease of reference, here's the description of the top of Inferno:
Pitch 3: (5.8) From the tree ledge belay...Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab ("Cathonian Slab" ) with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts (the climb " Brimstone" variously rated between 5.5 and 5.7) to the tree ledge where the route actually starts.
Alternately, hike steeply up to the left of this slab, then make a move back right (beware pine needles and leaves !) to gain the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab and walk right to below the start.
Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.
I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.
For ease of reference, here's the description of the top of Inferno:
Pitch 3: (5.8) From the tree ledge belay...Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
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