Bugaboos beta

I'm heading to the bugaboos in a few weeks, and could not be more excited. This is my first international alpine trip (done many climbs in RMNP to prepare). I am really wondering about conditions this time of year. We will hopefully be camping the in Applebee campground, and ticking off several moderates. Wondering if I should bring boots and crampons for the approach, or if approach shoes and gaiters would be sufficient. Excited to hear any other beta you want to spew as well.

I wore hikers and strapped the front points of my crampons to the bottom. It worked fine but my socks got wet every day. Something to keep the wet snow out might be nice. Gaitors would probably get too hot though.

There were people in full mountaineering kit but also people without crampons, people without ice axes, one guy without either. Mostly it depends on the col conditions.

When I went in August (years back) the hike up to Snowpatch-Bugaboo col was solid alpine ice during morning approaches. I'd def recommend bringing aluminum crampons - we actually had to kick the front points in a few times near the top because the ice was so hard (and our AL crampons dulled... instep 'pons would not have sufficed).

As for shoes, we just wore our approach shoes (no need for anything heavier). I'd recommend gore-tex ones if you can, because while the slopes and glacier surface can be frozen for alpine starts, for the return they were slush and thus soaked our shoes through.

That's helpful, thanks. I've got some pretty new goretex trail runners, perhaps I'll bring those with some light crampons.

I'd bring some light mountain boots. You're dry feet will thank you. Crampons are hit or miss. I used them a bunch on one trip and not once on another.

Old beta....

http://vimeo.com/13236371

From what I understand a 2 wheel drive vehicle is sufficient to get into the park, I will be driving a Nissan Sentra. Think that'll be a problem?

2WD is fine to get to the parking. It is mostly an old logging road and only the last 1/4 mile to parking is "rough" and not that bad at all.

I assume you have seen previous posts about protecting your vehicle from porcupines. Definitely take the time to protect your car as finding out that your brake lines are eaten through on the return trip would not be very fun.

I was there a bit later (late August) and used hikers with strap on crampons and an ice ax. I think early season it would be possible to just boot up the Col but I wouldn't have gone anywhere near the B-S without the appropriate gear late in the season. Weather didn't cooperate for Bugaboo spire so we never ventured over to the Bugaboo - Crescent Col.

Was the most fun I ever had getting snowed out multiple days in a row. There are a bunch of good "cragging" routes close to camp if the big objectives are out due to weather.

Paul - I just got back from the Bugs. Climbed there 7/21 - 7/28/13. The B-S col was melting out FAST when I left. Strongly suggest light mtn boots and aluminum crampons (might even sharpen them?). The last day up/down the col, the last couple steps were down to glacial ice and the bergshrund was opening up more every day (what you would end at the bottom of if you slid down the slope!)

All of the rock routes were in great shape!! :) I took my nephew up 5 of the trade routes - Kain Rt and NE Ridge (bugaboo spire); West ridge of Pidgeon, Surfs Up on Snowpatch and McTech Arete on Crescent Spire.

The road in is in the BEST condition I've ever seen it. LOGGING trucks on the weekdays. NP for a 2wd.

There is a Canadian Mountain guides conditions blog which includes the Bugaboos (maybe mentioned 1-2 times a week). link is acmg.ca/mcr to sign-up.

I have hundreds of pics if you're interested. Shoot me a msg at ianb4591@gmail.com

Paul - I just posted a bunch of Bugs beta photos from our late July trip. Mostly the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and Surf's Up on the southwest corner of Snowpatch Spire. Some of Pigeon and the B_S Col. Check them out at Ian-Bailey - Bugaboos.

Thanks Ian!

What are thoughts on bear canisters? Are they required/needed?

The campground has hanging racks to keep rodents out of your food. I seem to recall lockers as well. Bears are unlikely up there.

Was up there last weekend. The conditions are still plenty passable, though the bergschrunds are getting bigger. I wore running shoes and crampons and couldn't have been happier.

Perfect. Yeah, I spose bears are unlikely up there. Marmots are what I would be more concerned about. The racks sound great. Pictures are getting me more stoked....

I wore chacos with dull aluminum crampons. They worked great although chacos don't have the greatest insulation... I suppose gore text does have its applications.