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Routes in Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall)
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Behind the Curtain T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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DEFCON 1 T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Horse and Pony Show, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mudflap Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangina T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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White Dads On Rope T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Jeff Achey & Chris Kalous |
| Page Views: | 8,357 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Oct 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This unique route offers a fine day of climbing for the adventure-seeking choss connoisseur.
Pitch 1 (5.8): This is the Fishers Towers-esque pitch. The pitch is kind of funky, because youre climbing a crack, but its kind of wavy, making for scant gear placements as most of the time youre climbing the face and the crack is wide. It is easy climbing with one distinct crux through a constriction in the crack. Belay has one bolt and gear (purple Camalot) for anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10): Climb through a short roof with exfoliating rock to an easy face above with good rock. Two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb more easy terrain on good rock. Short pitch. When you get to the ledge, look for the two bolt belay on the right. May be easy to miss. Dont climb through the roof above.
Pitch 4 (5.9+): Go left to a bolt and climb up steep face to a corner. Dont climb the corner to the left of the bolt. Climb straight up above the bolt and into the corner. Above, you will find another bolt on the arête. Belay on large ledge from two bolts.
Pitch 5 (5.9): Angle up and right to two bolts on the face then trend left to the belay. Belay at two bolt belay on big ledge.
Pitch 6 (5.10): Climb the nice, left-facing corner, complete with bat guano and crumbling rock. A couple of bolts help protect this pitch, including one at the top of the pitch. Belay at one bolt belay and missing bolt (sleeve remaining). Supplementary gear is available up and right. Or, the more logical way is probably to link this with pitch 7.
Pitch 7 (5.10+): Climb underneath the roof and clip a fixed pin and place a #4 Camalot, if the pin isnt enough, before pulling the roof. Continue with easy climbing to the two bolt belay on a big ledge.
Pitch 8 (5.10): Pick your poison (death blocks) on the face immediately above the belay to gain a ledge. Then, climb the corner up and right where fixed pins should be visible. Clip some fixed pins and one bolt with gear intermixed. Halfway up you go right on to the face at a bolt. Go up the right side of a somewhat ominous-looking pillar before trending left underneath some roofs to the belay. There is a bolt just before the belay. Belay from two bolts at a small stance, the smallest belay ledge of the climb.
Pitch 9 (5.8): Climb up the corner on the left of the belay to a good ledge. Surmount a short corner to a the belay - one bolt and one fixed blade.
Pitch 10 (5.5?): Super easy climbing on big holds to the top. Two bolt belay, set a good distance back from the edge.
If youre going to link pitches, you would probably want to do it like this: 1, 2&3, 4, 5, 6&7, 8, 9&10. Could do some other combination but the climb has a lot of ledges and some traverses that would make rope drag an issue. However, a lot of the pitches are short, making it possible to link pitches.
Many of the pitches have runouts, but all are on easy terrain and all of the cruxes are well protected. You could probably call this 5.10 (5.8 R).
Descent: You can rap the route, but beware, there are some difficult pulls and rope-eating snags. The better option seems to be to descend the gully north (or right of the route) of the Mudwall, which includes some single-rope rappels.
Pitch 1 (5.8): This is the Fishers Towers-esque pitch. The pitch is kind of funky, because youre climbing a crack, but its kind of wavy, making for scant gear placements as most of the time youre climbing the face and the crack is wide. It is easy climbing with one distinct crux through a constriction in the crack. Belay has one bolt and gear (purple Camalot) for anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10): Climb through a short roof with exfoliating rock to an easy face above with good rock. Two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb more easy terrain on good rock. Short pitch. When you get to the ledge, look for the two bolt belay on the right. May be easy to miss. Dont climb through the roof above.
Pitch 4 (5.9+): Go left to a bolt and climb up steep face to a corner. Dont climb the corner to the left of the bolt. Climb straight up above the bolt and into the corner. Above, you will find another bolt on the arête. Belay on large ledge from two bolts.
Pitch 5 (5.9): Angle up and right to two bolts on the face then trend left to the belay. Belay at two bolt belay on big ledge.
Pitch 6 (5.10): Climb the nice, left-facing corner, complete with bat guano and crumbling rock. A couple of bolts help protect this pitch, including one at the top of the pitch. Belay at one bolt belay and missing bolt (sleeve remaining). Supplementary gear is available up and right. Or, the more logical way is probably to link this with pitch 7.
Pitch 7 (5.10+): Climb underneath the roof and clip a fixed pin and place a #4 Camalot, if the pin isnt enough, before pulling the roof. Continue with easy climbing to the two bolt belay on a big ledge.
Pitch 8 (5.10): Pick your poison (death blocks) on the face immediately above the belay to gain a ledge. Then, climb the corner up and right where fixed pins should be visible. Clip some fixed pins and one bolt with gear intermixed. Halfway up you go right on to the face at a bolt. Go up the right side of a somewhat ominous-looking pillar before trending left underneath some roofs to the belay. There is a bolt just before the belay. Belay from two bolts at a small stance, the smallest belay ledge of the climb.
Pitch 9 (5.8): Climb up the corner on the left of the belay to a good ledge. Surmount a short corner to a the belay - one bolt and one fixed blade.
Pitch 10 (5.5?): Super easy climbing on big holds to the top. Two bolt belay, set a good distance back from the edge.
If youre going to link pitches, you would probably want to do it like this: 1, 2&3, 4, 5, 6&7, 8, 9&10. Could do some other combination but the climb has a lot of ledges and some traverses that would make rope drag an issue. However, a lot of the pitches are short, making it possible to link pitches.
Many of the pitches have runouts, but all are on easy terrain and all of the cruxes are well protected. You could probably call this 5.10 (5.8 R).
Descent: You can rap the route, but beware, there are some difficult pulls and rope-eating snags. The better option seems to be to descend the gully north (or right of the route) of the Mudwall, which includes some single-rope rappels.
Photos
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