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Climbers in western (central) NY?

Original Post
Chance Philippi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 310

In this area with such scant climbing it would be nice to hook up with some other climbers, maybe abuse your woodie with you or split the gas to another region. I have climbed all over the country and love to get out whenever possible (ice/rock/choss) I have climbed mainly with my gf serving as rope gun. Comfortable leading (onsight) sport 10+ and sandbagged trad 9+ not into hangdogging or taking much at all, if you can't climb it drop a grade. With that being said I am currently in the shithole Corning NY and would love to join anyone on trips to the gunks, seneca rocks, or the adks/catskills. Also any other places you may travel to in the NY/PA area. Have full trad/ice racks so lets get together and send some routes!

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

HAHA Corning! I am from Horseheads, and have family in Corning and Hammondsport. Get out of WNY as soon as possible!

There is some good ice in the area, though, in the Finger Lakes region. Watkins Glen has some good ice, so does Hammondsport, and Naples. The only issue is that the majority of it is on private property, so you must get into the ravines quickly before too many people see you, but once you're in the woods you're generally alright.

neice.com has some good info on these climbing areas, check that out sometime.

If you're a skier as well, there are some new gas-lines that are being put up all over the region which make for some ghetto powder turns in the right conditions...my brother scoped a great one out and we skied it over Christmas break. Good times.

If you're ever in the ADK's, or planning on it, shoot me an email at bbotelho@albanylaw.edu. I live in Albany and like to get up there as much as I can.

Good luck with the asshole cops in Corning!

PeterW Whitmore · · Dryden, NY · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 50

Blue Run Rocks is maybe an hour from Corning, north of Wellsboro, PA. It has a decent collection of short sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The rock quality is pretty good too. I'm from the ithaca area, so I mostly go to the gunks or adks.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

I'm going to send you a PM.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

While you`re waiting as Peter said Blue Run Rocks is a solid area. 4 trad routes from 5.4 to 5.10 (piton crack is the 10 and its a very fun lead) and some great sport lines. Also some bouldering. 30 minute approach is nice (for me) because you are decently remote and never any crowds. One of my favorites in PA for sure. A good clean get away for the day or weekend.

Chance Philippi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 310

Thanks for the responses, all are appreciated! Yes, Corning cops are assholes lol. I nevermind the trespassing for ice routes, Twice I have been harassed by the cops and both times they said I was nuts and left without issue.
As for blue run rocks, I have climbed and camped there several times. I even added it to mountain project (add more routes for me, it is tedious), what were you guys trying to keep it a secret? If anyone is trying to sneak there this winter on a weekend let me know, everytime we go it is dead and would love to see a fellow climber

Brandon Howard · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

dude im from rochester. There is no reprieve if you stay in Western NY. Spent my past two summers in Colorado and the truth is if you wanna climb...gotta move. No two ways about it. I am very convinced that Western NY may literally be THE worst spot in the entire country for a climber to live.

chuckpr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

Check out pabouldering.com . There is some excellent sandstone bouldering in northern PA. I recently moved to Ithaca from CO. CO is fantastic but don't let these trolls get you down on WNY. If you want to get strong in WNY, you can. Just gotta stop complaining and search a bit for the rock. Some of the excuses above are so tired.

Randy Aristotle · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 239

Not much rock to speak of in WNY. Ellicottville if you're desperate, otherwise head to the ANF or Canada.

The saving grace is the precious few months of ice climbing. There is enough within a relatively short distance to keep it interesting.

Brandon Howard · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

Chuckpr, the excuses above are not excuses or tired whatsoever. Ithaca is nowhere close to what us out here consider "western" ny. I personally have spent entire weekends for the past two years (including this past one) searching endlessly and fruitlessly for any sort of area that could be considered a "spot." I have emailed random people and gone on the wildest of goose chases, including sketchy treks through gas company owned land, in search of anything within 2-3 hours of where i live. The unfortunate truth is that short of a (almost) four hour ride into PA or to the Dacks, there is not a single spot in upstate NY that can even fill a single day of climbing. I only post this so that others do not needlessly endure many, or any, of the heartbreaks I have experienced every single time I have arrived at a new spot hoping to find a hidden golden nugget that I could give to those who I share my passion with.
Cheers

kpbo · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 30
handon broward wrote:in search of anything within 2-3 hours of where i live.
~2.5 hrs from Rochester...

mountainproject.com/v/eagle…

adirondackrock.com/newroute…
chuckpr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

Handon, I stand corrected. Apologies.

Brandon Howard · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

Chuckpr, no offense taken man.

kpbo, unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to learn any trad yet. Plan on trying in the next couple of years but as before location is everything and im not in a great spot. Thanks for the info though i will most certainly keep it in mind for when i am prepared

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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