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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Murrin Park
> Nightmare Rock
Sentry Box
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 107
votes
Routes in Nightmare Rock
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And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Barn Door, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Insomnia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paternity Test S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short Sentry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, Oct. 1960. FFA: Eric Weinstein, 1976. Direct: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 12,565 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | David Trippett on Nov 26, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The classic hard finger crack at Murrin.
Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.
Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There is serious ground fall potential in the first 5m of this variation.
Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.
Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There is serious ground fall potential in the first 5m of this variation.
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