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Indian Head Direct
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 9
votes
Routes in North End
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Argonaut, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat Attack T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fiddlers on the Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nevermore T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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North End Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Recommendation, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red River Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Shamans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Unbroken Chain aka Juggernaut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Unknown 5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tim Fisher and Terry Jennings, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 2,573 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | sanz on May 14, 2013 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
I am posting this route in hopes that some of the Moore's vets can add more info. I am pretty sure that we (and others, from what I have heard) started this thing wrong and did a sort of indirect version.
The guide references starting in "a V slot with an overhang at the bottom." We started in what was more like a chimney, toward the left side of the little briar patch under the Indian Head. I am now pretty sure this is "Nevermore." It is definitely longer than 40 feet and harder than 5.7, as P1 is described in the guide. This made our second pitch a short, easy diagonal traverse up and right to the dark corner where the money pitch starts.
The money pitch is impossible to miss and amazing! Our "Indian Head Indirect" version of P1 and P2 was also actually pretty cool, but I am quite sure it is not the right start. I am hoping this gets some folks talking about the proper start so that others who wanna get on this thing feel more prepared and do it right!
The guide references starting in "a V slot with an overhang at the bottom." We started in what was more like a chimney, toward the left side of the little briar patch under the Indian Head. I am now pretty sure this is "Nevermore." It is definitely longer than 40 feet and harder than 5.7, as P1 is described in the guide. This made our second pitch a short, easy diagonal traverse up and right to the dark corner where the money pitch starts.
The money pitch is impossible to miss and amazing! Our "Indian Head Indirect" version of P1 and P2 was also actually pretty cool, but I am quite sure it is not the right start. I am hoping this gets some folks talking about the proper start so that others who wanna get on this thing feel more prepared and do it right!
Location
Good question!
The Indian Head feature is hard to miss as you walk from the Ampitheater to the North End. There is a little briar-filled alcove under the feature. The proper start of the route is somewhere in here. The wide chimney on the left side of the briar patch is "Nevermore" and can also be used to start the route.
If you have double ropes, the guide says you can rap from a tree island climber's right of the Indian Head. For a single rope rap, scramble along the rest of the ridge that forms the Indian Head and descend the gully to the left.
The Indian Head feature is hard to miss as you walk from the Ampitheater to the North End. There is a little briar-filled alcove under the feature. The proper start of the route is somewhere in here. The wide chimney on the left side of the briar patch is "Nevermore" and can also be used to start the route.
If you have double ropes, the guide says you can rap from a tree island climber's right of the Indian Head. For a single rope rap, scramble along the rest of the ridge that forms the Indian Head and descend the gully to the left.
3 Comments