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5.10 Newton's

Original Post
Neal Pence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 15

Hey guys and gals. I was just curious if anyone liked these or had a lot of experience with em. Thanks for the help.

Chris Norwood · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 80

I think they are great for crack climbing and longer multipitch routes. They are quite stiff, so definitely not the best shoe for small edging or high-performance, but what is sacrificed here is gained in comfort. The stiffness also means they need a bit of a break-in before they really get comfortable and fitted to your feet (maybe like 1-2 thousand feet of climbing ideally?)

I like the lacing system, and with my feet, they fit like gloves -- quite snug. A buddy of mine has wide feet, and barely can lace them shut, but he still seems to enjoy the shoe.

Alex Mitchell · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 2,367

They are great for long multipitch or crack climbing. Absolutely suck on overhanging or edging. Its not a sport climbers shoe.

They feel very comfortable for about 8 pitches. After that they start to hurt on the heel.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I concur, these are a good all-around shoe and very comfortable for long routes.

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

I wear for low grade trad, which is the only trad grades I climb, lol. Very comfortable. Thick, stiff sole. I like them a lot. I wear street shoe size 12 and 12 in the newtons is snug, but not painful.

Jeff Scheuerell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 2,298

The old Newtons were my favorite shoe, great for cracks and you could stand on a dime. They kept the name but changed the shoe. Not a good shoe for much now, maybe easier cracks.

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

just want to chime in that i think the Newton is a great fitting all a rounder. i'm surprised folks find they lack for edging...? they are stiff and for me seem to hold a well placed foot on small edges with good success. Perhaps the stiffness gets in the way of some climbers ability to "feel" where they are on edge...? the torsional stiffness is a plus when stepping into wider cracks too. With laces running all the way to the toe, and following an asymmetric curve to follow the natural shape of the foot, many folks find a fine fit across many different foot shapes. Highly adjustable.

this lined shoe does NOT require much downsizing, the heel is pretty low-volume, and if you will be walking off routes, might i suggest sliding the heel off your foot ( relieves toe pressure), folding under the heel and securing the upper eyelets of the lacing to add some padding underfoot. the bottom of the heel is very thin and can hurt if you jump down or step on a sharp.

Neal Pence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 15

Thanks for all the input I can get a pair of anasazis for about 70 new and could get these for 40 and its lookin like i should just spend the extra 30 and get another pair of anasazi's i was just lookin for a comfy trad shoe without too much bite in the wallet.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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