What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering

P2 of thin ice, @ needles CA

Joe De Luca wrote:All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA.

My vote is for Modern Times in the Gunks, 5.8 MA

no mention of anything on Granite Mountain?

The Wisdom 5.11 Eldorado...Helicopter V5 Morrison...

Mike Rowley wrote:Dont know if anyone has mentioned these yet, but Hemp Liberation at Smith Rock is suuuuuper stout for the grade (5.10d)

Ima Fred Knot wrote:Black is Brown in Yose. Listed as 5.8 but more like 5.10.

I vote for Traffic Jam at Seneca. I think it's harder than 5.7. Anybody's thoughts. Don't upgrade Soler to a 9. Than you'll just have to upgrade every climb in the eastern US. Just climb harder, and think of the real hardmen/women like the Conns'! This ain't gym climbing-this is serious business!!

1st pitch of after six in Yosemite. The so called "worlds hardest 5.6!" Felt more like 5.8 or 5.9

Tony B wrote:The Ummph slot is only 5.9+, right?!?!?

Anything rated 5.9+. Wait - that is the definition of 9+ (harder than 5.9)!

doligo wrote:Another vote for Mother 1. Cello and Javelin (both 10+) in the Cracked Canyon are pretty damn hard, IMO. Ursula (5.5) and Broken Sling (5.8) in the Gunks.

+1 for Hard to Believe

Seriously, it is hard to believe that has ever been free climb period, let alone call it 10b. Go get on it!!

Fun House Stairway, V1 in Leavenworth, WA may be the biggest bouldering sandbag I've even climbed.

Elephant Crack at Palisades, AL goes at 5.6 in the book. Probably more like 5.7/8 and I wouldn't recommend leading it unless you're comfortable on .10s

Norman Clyde 4th class [drops the mic and walks away]

JMo,

I disagree with P2 of Thin Ice being sandbagged. Its a bit awkward, but not all that hard. I think its fair at 5.9.

I've always felt like Lord Caffeine (Olmsted Canyon, Tuolumne) was hard for 5.10d. But I haven't been on it in years, so maybe it'd feel more manageable now.

And I always thought that Pinch A Smelly Scrutinizer (Joshua Tree) felt hard for 10c. That thing is an awesome climb! A real gem.

My personal favorite is Octagon at Vedauwoo. In a guidebook published in 1981, it was listed as 5.9+. When it was finally free climbed in 2003, it got the grade of 12c.

Unlike other Vedauwoo guidebook authors (vis. Orenzak & Lynn re: gunks), Kopischka hoped that some strong person would accidentally get the first ascent thinking they were warming up. I swear Zach just gets nauseous at the thought of people enjoying themselves.

Spock's Brain and Nip & Tuck are contenders at Seneca. I also thought Helter Skelter was tough for the grade