Noodle
·
Aug 1, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 195
There was an existing piton as the anchor on a route I have been working. Since you can't bolt where it is, and my nut and lockers where taken as"booty", I placed another piton to have two points. I bought 2 rap rings and webbing. I threaded the webbing through the rap rings and each side through a piton. Pulled back down to form a V, and threaded the webbing back through the rings and tied a water knot with 4 inch tails. My question being, if a piton fails, the rap ring will just slide out of the webbing and most likely the piton. So how do I make a "sliding X" style anchor with rap rings so if a piton fails it will still be connected to the sling? My only thought was to use another cord or something tied off.
I wouldn't use a sliding x for this application. I'd just tie an overhand or figure eight at the bottom and then you'll have redundancy.
Noodle
·
Aug 2, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 195
Aha! Thanks Danny, it makes stupid sense to me know. I'm amazed at how simple that is. As far as the figure eight or overhand goes, it a makes sense to use the x in this situation because the rap actually moves quite a bit around an arête. Thanks for the quick responses. Now hopefully it stops raining so I can go fix it and give it another burn.
rgold
·
Aug 2, 2013
·
Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
I think this is the way to do it if you absolutely have to have significant lateral motion and hope to keep loads well-distributed. This is better than sliding-X configurations, in which friction interferes with load distribution. The solid blobs denote overhand knots, and of course you'd leave much longer tails than shown in the schematic. Not a bad idea to back the overhand knots up with a barrel knot just for good measure, because what you have if one of the pitons pulls is a essentially an EDK. (This is why I didn't suggest figure-eight knots).
I agree with Gary that a sliding X isn't ideal for this application. You should be able to determine the load direction and create a pre-equalized anchor with extra redundancy and minimal extension.
Depending on the pins, you might want to add quicklinks, too. I would do it once or twice in a pinch, but I wouldn't want to repeatedly weight cord/wedding over a non-rounded metal edge.
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