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Sport climbing options near Devil's Lake & Gen Beta on DL

Original Post
bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

So my friend and I are going to be learning some anchoring stuff over by Devil's lake. After that's done, we'd like to stay around the area and do some climbing. Since we're relatively new to setting anchors, unless we can sling trees and boulders, we wouldnt wanna set a whole bunch of complicated anchors by ourselves unsupervised. So we're looking for other options in the area that aren't too far out for sport climbing/bolted top ropes. Any suggestions?

Also, any suggestions on good places to start/set routes and generic beta on DL? My friend and I can climb 5.8-5.10c/d right now. Indoors we climb a few 5.11s but at least at Red Wing, we're nowhere close to that. We'll be in the area for about 2.5 days.

On a lighter note, what might be a good spot to camp, catch sunset/sunrise/good views?

Craig T · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Nearest is Necadah/Petenwell about an hour away for sport. The camping up there at Buckhorn State Park is better than at DL, so we'll often climb the day at DL, drive up to Buckhorn, camp, and do second day at Petenwell.

Also, have you considered bouldering? Lots of good bouldering at DL, and can provide a break from TR/anchoring.

bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks a ton Craig. That sounds like a lovely plan. I guess I can try the same thing. So, I dont have a crash pad and both my partner and I dont boulder all that much (although I probably should).

Mike Noth · · IA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 30

there are plenty of climbs to throw a sling or two around a tree/boulder at the lake without much afterthought - why go somewhere else if you're already in the area?

bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Oh awesome. Thanks :). I've never climbed at DL. So I was wondering.

Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 47

I'd recommend camping at Devils Lake if you can get a spot. It's good camping by my standards (but it is car camping). They have nonreservable walk up spots but you should have a backup plan in case they are full.

If you are comfortable setting anchors from trees and boulders you should have no problem setting on most routes at Devil's Lake as long as you have three long pieces of webbing. 30' or more lengths are good. Be careful and have someone else who is setting anchors check your work before climbing.

I would recommend East Bluff - East Rampart. It's busy so get there early but you should be able to get help checking your setup if you ask.

I'm not sure how it is this year but Buckhorn was mosquito infested last year. Governor Dodge is also about an hour from DL and has sport climbing and camping for another option.

PM me if interested in possibly meeting up at DL on a weekend day.

Craig T · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0
Justin1982z28 wrote:...Buckhorn was mosquito infested last year...
Yeah, pretty much always is, but I'd say its worth it for the private beach and more secluded camping. Camping at DL makes me feel claustrophobic with all the little kids running in and out of their 18-person tents, their dad trying to drunkenly learn how to chop wood at 2am, and screeching campfire "sing" alongs. Then there's Wheeler's for those who have always wanted to get kicked out of somewhere.
EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,207

Hire a professionally trained/certified climbing guide/instructor for a day or 2 and get totally dialed in building anchors. You will gain great info that will last you the rest of your life.
Every week I see made up bullshit anchors that take people an hour to set up....don't be that person.
The lake is awesome enjoy!

Ely Finucane · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 895

Stay at Green Valley. Right off of hwy 12 next to DLSP. Donna and her husband have a HUGE project to make their private land into a much larger campground for the community. 10 bucks per night and there are plenty of sites that are always open.

bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks a ton for the wealth of information. I'd definitely do all of this. I ended up making a spur-of-the-moment trip to South Dakota instead. Will head up to DL soon though.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285
Craig T wrote: Then there's Wheeler's for those who have always wanted to get kicked out of somewhere.
No need to diss Wheeler's. Mark is a retired climber who has always been good to climbers (and been known to indulge in a little devil's weed)and is the only campground with excellent bouldering on the property.

But, yeah, if your intention is to party all night and make a lot of noise, then don't go to Wheeler's.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Ed Wright wrote: No need to diss Wheeler's. Mark is a retired climber who has always been good to climbers (and been known to indulge in a little devil's weed)and is the only campground with excellent bouldering on the property. But, yeah, if your intention is to party all night and make a lot of noise, then don't go to Wheeler's.
Family camping,cook out, playing a 12 string guitar, softly singing around the campfire, yup, that got us kicked out of Wheelers long ago. Never again go there.
See Donna at Green Valley for sure. It's not cheap for a group of 4 or 5 at 10 bucks per head, but quiet and lovely place where no reservation is needed to drop in and camp.
As for the climbing, much of the classic climbing along the East Ramparts is clearly anchored by slings off boulders and trees. Few nuts needed for anchor set ups. Usually empty on weekdays all this summer. Tons of routes to choose from every day.
VA GUIDES · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 5
EB wrote:Hire a professionally trained/certified climbing guide/instructor for a day or 2 and get totally dialed in building anchors. You will gain great info that will last you the rest of your life. Every week I see made up bullshit anchors that take people an hour to set up....don't be that person. The lake is awesome enjoy!
I agree, give us try. PlayWildWI.com

PS- Stay away from webbing...much better ways to set anchors are available....

Thanks
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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