Looking for someone with a rack who wants to climb the first flatiron sat 8/3

I'm hoping someone in the Boulder area is looking to do some climbing on Saturday the third but doesn't have a partner. I have a 70m rope and a dozen draws but very little experience placing gear and none of my own to speak of. If anyone out there is interested in doing the direct east face which is a 10 pitch 5.6 and doesn't mind being a bit of a teacher along the way, I would be super stoked. I have been climbing for 2-3 years, I lead 5.9's without a thought, 10a/b is where I start to feel decently challenged. If someone is interested and wants to grab a beer in town this week to talk about it, let me know! Thanks.

Sure, but it's going to cost you.

Any chance you can do weekday? Trying to stay away from flatirons on weekends.

Chris Houston wrote:I'm hoping someone in the Boulder area is looking to do some climbing on Saturday the third but doesn't have a partner. I have a 70m rope and a dozen draws but very little experience placing gear and none of my own to speak of. If anyone out there is interested in doing the direct east face which is a 10 pitch 5.6 and doesn't mind being a bit of a teacher along the way, I would be super stoked. I have been climbing for 2-3 years, I lead 5.9's without a thought, 10a/b is where I start to feel decently challenged. If someone is interested and wants to grab a beer in town this week to talk about it, let me know! Thanks.

If you lead 5.9, just solo the 1st flatiron with someone who knows it. It's quicker and gear is extremely sparse on the 1st anyways. If you're interested in learning trad and how to place gear, I would suggest soliciting someone to take you to Eldo.

If you do decide to solo, just remember, the first 50 feet is the crux (other than route finding). If you cruise the first 50 feet, the rest will feel like steep walking.

+1 for number to rock and resole.

If you don't end up finding a partner, a great and easier way to the top of the first is "Baker's Way" (5.3), to "North Arete" (5.4). An easy route with short crux sections that is a very fun solo.

Having said that, a set of nuts, a few tri cams and some longer slings would be a fine "rack" for the climb. The crux is bolt protected (still R rated) and as was mentioned above, there is very little gear to be had for most of the rest of the climb.

In any case, enjoy! Hope you're able to get out!

i'd go for 'jmeizis'...jeremiah is a super sound climber and knows the flatirons well enough to protect and guide you through some of the better and more nebulous terrain surrounding each pitch of the direct east face...!!!

jmeizis wrote:Sure, but it's going to cost you.

nicholas patterson wrote:i'd go for 'jmeizis'...jeremiah is a super sound climber and knows the flatirons well enough to protect and guide you through some of the better and more nebulous terrain surrounding each pitch of the direct east face...!!!

I heard Jeremiah can CRUSH.

In all seriousness, definitely don't pay someone to 'guide' you up the first flatiron. If your abilities are anywhere near what you claim them to be, you could probably handle it without a rope. I'm not suggesting you climb it your first time w/o; I'm just trying to point out it's not technically challenging. And definitely don't pay Jeremiah to bring you up it. That's a rescue waiting to happen.

Terrible suggestions overall on how to climb the 1st Flatiron. Just because you don't place gear well doesn't mean that free-soloing is the best option and calling a multi-pitch 5.6 "non-technical" is just plain stupid.

I guided two locals up it yesterday as part of a trad/multi-pitch training course and there's plenty of gear on the 1st if you know how to find it. Carried a full rack of cams as usual and seems like nuts and tri-cams would be a waste of weight, but then I haven't needed a tri-cam on the rack for 20+ years since flexible cams were invented.

Had the entire 1st to ourselves on a Sunday due to thick clouds over the route...guess Boulder is a "fair-weather" kinda town?

Eli Helmuth wrote: Had the entire 1st to ourselves on a Sunday due to thick clouds over the route...guess Boulder is a "fair-weather" kinda town?

Maybe you can be choosier when you are doing it for love instead of money? :-)

After a decade in the North Cascades, it'd take more than few clouds to turn me around from a fun day on the rock. It was a great adventure with 50' visibility. Love or money it's all the same when you're a crack addict who loves to share the love!

Eli Helmuth wrote:Had the entire 1st to ourselves on a Sunday due to thick clouds over the route...guess Boulder is a "fair-weather" kinda town?

I was thinking the same thing as the whole canyon was a ghost town yesterday. Started to lightly drizzle finally at around 2pm where we were. Got some good laps in.

Eli Helmuth wrote:Had the entire 1st to ourselves on a Sunday due to thick clouds over the route...guess Boulder is a "fair-weather" kinda town?

No you didn't. I guess it wasn't my imagination that I heard people climbing below us.

Cool how the sounds were completely different up there in the clouds- the trail voices sounded really close as did the voices of my partners from 60m away. The city so quiet...

My Ex has a great rack...

You put the gear in the cracks, didn't you know that? Maybe that's why you guys are having a hard time finding pro on the Flatty's, looking in the wrong places?

Saying "you might as well free solo it because the gear is so sparse" is a huge over exaggeration. I would guess folks who regularly climb steeper and harder stuff are moving quite fast and tend not to see it but it is there. Not like I have never free soloed but I also don't recommend it to anyone. I have never considered that a casual activity whatever the grade.

Enough gear on the 1st to make it interesting for a 5.9 leader breaking into trad-multipitch. Fandango is pretty much one long left facing crack dihederal system. That could be a viable option as well.
In my opinion, I've climbed/ guided routes on the first for the past 10 years, only recently over the past few have I started soloing up there. When I have gone soloing with friends who don't do it as much but still can climb pretty hard, I've found its not the technical grade that shuts people down its the EXPOSURE! Getting wigged out on a 5.6 slab 600 feet of the deck can all of a sudden feel like 5.9 slab climbing if your head isn't solid.. But that just takes experience and time to get over. I don't recommend you solo the route.. I do recommend you climb it with a full rack and just be prepared to run it out sometimes. Finding safe, bomber belay stations will be your biggest crux.. Good luck, and be patient..