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Trad shoe recommendations other than TC Pro

josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

the size is what matters most. shoe model should depend on what shape your foot is and what kind of performance you are looking for.
climbing store employees hate me, because I'll try on every pair of shoe they have in two in three different sizes before deciding.
my two cents on models:
avoid anything that prevents your toes from laying flat, no bent toes = happy toes
cant find a pair of hightops you like? size up and wear socks

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212

I have a pair of Katana laces; not an all day shoe imo. Definitely not a crack shoe.

Boreal Ballet Gold or Ace (same as ballet, but no hi-top) are both board lasted (like the TC pro) and very similar in climbing feel to the TC pro. Cheaper too. I replaced my TCs with ballet golds and was happy with the performance.

My only problem with them is that they didn't fit my feet too well out of the box and haven't stretched much at all to make them comfortable. This could be a great thing if you foot fits the last well, unfortunately mine didn't, so I'll be going back to the TCs since I know they fit like a glove. So, if you foot fits the shoe out of the box, they're a great alternative to the TC pro.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Anybody who's worn both have an opinion if he TC Pros and Aces feel any different? I had a pair of Aces long ago that I climbed in only a couple of times because they felt so darn clunky and were so insensitive. Actually made stuff feel sketchy because I couldn't really feel what I was standing on. Absolutely hated them.

Snoopy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

Mythos at least 2 sizes smaller than street shoe. They are great for everything especially all day comfort. I'd say they edge very good unless you are climbing 5.12. I have done a lot of 10+ face climbing in them and they do really good.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Locker, I know people who absolutely loved those shoes, but unfortunately I wasn't one of them. I'm more of a 'drop your an ankle and smear on an edge' kind of guy. A product of climbing at Suicide I guess. The Aces never really let you do that. The only other shoes I really liked pure edging in were the old Mega SGs. You could stand on a dime but still feel the dime. Man I miss those shoes.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Aaron Nash wrote:I have a pair of Katana laces; not an all day shoe imo. Definitely not a crack shoe.
Funny, I freed moonlight & astroman in those. I did take them off between pitches, but then you always make some performance to comfort tradeoff. Tells you how useless shoe recommendation is.
josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

+1 for Aces. IMO, TC pros feel clunky and obtrusive. but my go to trad shoe (since acopa is impossible to find) have been mocasyms.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

hit up waterstone in wv for acopas....one of my buddies picked up a pair last month. they're sitting on a pile of them

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Boots Ylectric wrote: Once it's time to replace my grandstones I'm going to give these a shot. fiveten.com/products/footwe…
Have had both and love the anasazi hi tops. Little less stiff as boots feel of the grandstones
Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,970
Boots Ylectric wrote:I absolutely love my 5.10 Grandstones. Good edges, great smearing, and high top so they protect my ankles when I sloppily jam them in cracks as I thrash about a 5.8 lol. You can get them pretty cheap as well, and they are comparable to the TC pros.
Those things are the stiffest shoe I've ever felt!
Scot Hastings · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

Thanks all for the recommendations! I've got the Astromans on order in 13.5. Hopefully I can squeeze into those. If not, it's good to know there are other options.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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