Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976 |
Page Views: | 5,930 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Thomas d'Aquin on Jul 3, 2011 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Beautiful long perfect dihedral after some interesting face work.
P1: The original approach was to traverse in from the left, up the grassy ledges below Wild Turkeys. Nowadays everyone climbs Blownout Direct (5.9+). To do it this way, climb the detached flake up to and around the tree to a ledge. Stem between the pillars and move into the technical seam with three pitons to a stance. Go straight up to a zig-zagging hand crack that takes you to the belay "in a protected corner beneath the great upper dihedral."
P2: 100 feet of dihedral! Stems, chimney moves, lieback, all you ever wanted! Strenuous bulge at the top. Beacon inside corner climbing at its finest.
P1: The original approach was to traverse in from the left, up the grassy ledges below Wild Turkeys. Nowadays everyone climbs Blownout Direct (5.9+). To do it this way, climb the detached flake up to and around the tree to a ledge. Stem between the pillars and move into the technical seam with three pitons to a stance. Go straight up to a zig-zagging hand crack that takes you to the belay "in a protected corner beneath the great upper dihedral."
P2: 100 feet of dihedral! Stems, chimney moves, lieback, all you ever wanted! Strenuous bulge at the top. Beacon inside corner climbing at its finest.
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