The Tao of Dow
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | M. Hartrich, Albert Dow, Alec Behr May 1980 |
Page Views: | 1,635 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | john strand on Mar 26, 2009 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A pretty good climb at a moderate grade. Ascends a nice slab with fair-to-good pro, though a little run out at the top.
START: On the slab below, and a little right of, the tree growing from a crack about 20-25ft up. [Var] Climb the slab, passing to the right of the tree, and climb the slab above (tri-cams and TCU's) to a very shallow flake/left-facing-corner (natural thread possible). Up this and on to a stance (with a 3/8“ SS replacing the original 1/4" bolt). Now step right and make smearing moves (crux) to the slab above. Move up and left (TCU and/or nut for possible belay and/or directional) and then up along a dike. Continue to the dbl bolt (3/8") anchor of "Fools / Reelin'" ....or, about 10-12 feet before reaching that anchor, step up right and out of the dike to the slab and trees above. 140 +/- ft, 5.8+ PG-13
Variation: It is possible to start on "Standard and Poors" and move right up the slab to intercept the described route below the flake/corner. This variation is less well protected and you have to fight the tree's branches.
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