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Colorectal Surgery Disaster
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
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Routes in Last Stand Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Colorectal Surgery Disaster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crescent Moon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fist Full of Scalps S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Frolic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Stand, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peyote Trip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Running Bare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sweat Lodge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | David Lenz, Peter Lenz |
| Page Views: | 791 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jul 23, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
You will find interesting climbing up a wide crack/narrow chimney.
Crux is a small overhang. Off-width skills not required.Lichen, moss and loose blocks add spice to the 5.8 grade. (I rated it a "bomb," due to the loose blocks.) Construct your anchor with two double length runners (around small trees) and a 0.75 Camalot in a shallow hole. To the West of this crack is a low angle gully which serves as the descent route. Welcome to the real world.
Crux is a small overhang. Off-width skills not required.Lichen, moss and loose blocks add spice to the 5.8 grade. (I rated it a "bomb," due to the loose blocks.) Construct your anchor with two double length runners (around small trees) and a 0.75 Camalot in a shallow hole. To the West of this crack is a low angle gully which serves as the descent route. Welcome to the real world.
Location
This pitch is a crack/chimney located at the far West (ie climber's right) of the Last Stand Wall. Descent: walk down the easy gully West of the climb.
Protection
No bolts, but the crack allows for good protection.
Trees at top provide anchors. A .75 camalot can also be used. (Feel free to add a bolt anchor if there is any evidence that the trees are being damaged or do not provide an adequate anchor.)
Cams and nuts provide excellent protection on this route. Bring one 4-5 inch cam for the wide section.
Be certain your belayer stands to the side, so that you do not crush their skull with a loose block.
Trees at top provide anchors. A .75 camalot can also be used. (Feel free to add a bolt anchor if there is any evidence that the trees are being damaged or do not provide an adequate anchor.)
Cams and nuts provide excellent protection on this route. Bring one 4-5 inch cam for the wide section.
Be certain your belayer stands to the side, so that you do not crush their skull with a loose block.
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