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Fan Y
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Jul 22, 2013
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Bishop
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 878
TRed it over the weekend and thinking about leading it - if anyone who's done it has creative gear beta, I would love to hear from you. (like a black tricam in the 2-finger pod above the mono?)
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jim.dangle
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Jul 22, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 5,882
That's awesome. Leading Stagefright is a big deal in my book. I wonder how many ascents it has had total? You might trying asking on neclimbs.com forums as the valley locals both young and old seem to check that site more regularly. Good luck! JIm
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Jay Knower
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Jul 23, 2013
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Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
· Joined Jul 2001
· Points: 6,056
Haven't led it, but I've TRed it. I think those new, small tricams might work well. Best to get some, rap down and see if they fit. I know the FFA used sliders, but good luck finding some these days. Maybe Lowe Balls, but they might be too high profile to fit. It's a cool line, but there are a lot of other pitches near there that are just as cool and have better pro (Heather, 1st pitch of Mordor, Tourist Treat).
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Fan Y
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Jul 23, 2013
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Bishop
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 878
I didn't pay too much attention while on TR, but I was also thinking small tricams and ballnutz may be the way to go to make the climb a reasonable R. and 12b/c? really?! man the moves are hard!
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Jay Knower
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Jul 23, 2013
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Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
· Joined Jul 2001
· Points: 6,056
Definitely hard .12. Much harder than Heather, to the right, which seems solid at .12b.
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john strand
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Jul 23, 2013
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Jimmy Surette said "like Genesis w/o the bolt" eldo G is 12C so,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Fan Y
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Jul 29, 2013
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Bishop
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 878
thanks for all the info - went back to it but some key holds were very wet still. cleaned it a bit and found some *very marginal* gear. hope it dries next week!
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