Acadia Aug. 5-10

I will be heading up to Maine, and the ranger says Precipice is closed, because of 3 falcon chicks. What are the next best areas for trad lines in the park. Remote with no crowds is good, with long climbs being best. Any suggestions? Thanks!

If you haven't already there's a great tool on this website which searches the database. Navigate to Acadia and click the Best Routes for You link on the left side. That should give you a good place to start while you wait for replies.

I'd head an hour inland to Clifton. It's a gem, and has none of the crowds. Bring trad gear tho, people see bolts and think it's sport, it's not.

In Acadia check out great head, the bubble, and otter cliffs (I guess...). You won't find lines as long as the precipice has unless you go to Clifton, which again, I highly recommend.

I think the ranger was confused.

There is a difference between the Precipice hiking trail and the Precipice climbing area. The Precipice hiking trail is closed due to falcon nesting but last I heard the climbing area is still open. (Unfortunately the was a climbing accident there last week.)

The Precipice climbing area is located a quarter mile (prob less) down from the precipice trail parking. Usually the far right side of the cliff is closed for nesting but thankfully this excludes all the good climbs.

In short, you should be good to go. Call Alpenglow sports in Bar Harbor if you want to check if the cliff is open.

Jim

The Precipice climbing area (the documented part of it anyway) is unaffected by the falcon closure - its the hiking trail that is closed. The ban should be lifted shortly anyway - notice when the bans at other climbing areas such as NH are lifted. They do like to make a show of at Acadia though and tend to keep it inplace longer.

googled it - Acadia Mountain Guides apparently had a rope break? and some people fell at Otter Cliffs. Anyone know what happened?

Thanks, everyone! Also, I will probably need a good, safe partner for a couple of days. I climb trad, lead 9s at Seneca Rocks, WV. Anyone game?

Unfortunately there have been two accidents involving Acadia Mountain Guides recently. In addition, to the accident at OtterCliffs several weeks ago, last week a guide fell descending Old Town at the Precipice. The details of both accidents are not clear but in the latest accident it's thought the guide fell while being lowered or rappelling off the end of the rope. In the earlier incident the rope was cut somehow and the guide and a one client fell onto another client. In both cases the injuries are serious but not critical.

There is some discussion and links on neclimbs.com

Also, the Second accident on Old Town this year as a climber suffered a pretty serious head injury after a ground fall there earlier in the year.

Jim

Hey there, I'm looking for partners the next few days if you're interested. Brought full rack bd .3-4 nuts and hexes, looking to climb moderates or follow up to 10s. Text or call if you're looking for partners 9089382107