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Rope-strength loss by way of sand/ dirt contamination?

Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

We have all heard it before, "Don’t step on the rope, you will get sand in it and grind all the fibers away!" However, most of us also know no one has ever died because they climbed on a rope that had been stepped on. I understand how abrasive particles could tear through soft material--it's not rocket science. However, is this a tall tale or is there any real proof to show that dirt and sand contamination, under normal-use conditions, can actually reduce the strength of a rope, sling or piece of webbing by a worthwhile amount?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Sure, there are a few tests out there showing dirty ropes fatigue quicker than clean ones, there´s even one by the UIAA if I remember correctly.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

realistically it wont matter ... if you use your ropes alot ... theyll wear out either through falls or blown sheaths before a few steps on the rope

if yr rope is REALLY dirty ... then simply rinse it off ... its that simple

a rope used daily will generally last less than a year anyways ... for leading

;)

Dan Felix · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 35

I'm less concerned about dirt being ground into the sheath than I am about the sharp rock that might happen to be under the rope when its stepped on...

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

Dirt in the rope reduces the strength by 10.8 percent per each .02 grams of dirt. Where did I get that statistic? I pulled it out of my ass like pretty much all "facts" on climbing forums. Opinions abound. ;-) According to the UIAA the real enemy to your rope is sharp edges no matter how old or dirty it is.
theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Although I don't think dirt will appreciably weaken a rope, I do feel the rope deserves an ultra high level of respect since it plays a critical role in safety.

Don't step on it.
Keep it clean.
Store it properly.
Etc...

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590
Greg D wrote:Although I don't think dirt will appreciably weaken a rope, I do feel the rope deserves an ultra high level of respect since it plays a critical role in safety. Don't step on it. Keep it clean. Store it properly. Etc...
This. Although it might not have a serious effect, it's my life. Not to mention, I hate getting black rope hands.

Although the odd accidental step might not be so bad, I'm sure stomping all over is just stupid to even test.
Scott Phil · · NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 258

OK, I'm dating myself here . . .

My first rope was a 50 meter Goldline. Since Goldline did not have a sheath it was possible for sand and dirt to get in between the individual strands. Then when the rope was loaded, the sharp edges of the sand grains would cut your rope from the inside theoretically leading to internal damage that could not be verified from a visual inspection.

This is much less of an issue with kernmantle ropes since the sheath prevents sand and dirt from getting inside the rope. But as others have posted there is still the danger of sharp edges underneath the rope. Grit in the sheath of a rope can also act as an abrasive as the rope passes through biners or belay devises.

More fundamentally, your rope is an essential piece of equipment. While today's ropes are much more durable than Goldline (and much nicer in other ways), I still prefer to keep mine out of the dirt and avoid stepping on it. That said, I don't worry about my rope as much as I used to back in the day.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

One more thought. Anyone that climbs in the desert a lot has seen how the sand on ropes can wear through biners exceptionally fast.

One more reason to keep your rope clean.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

conversely i challenge anyone to climb alot of moderate multi here in ledgy, muddy, forested squamish and NOT have their rope get dirty ... especially in the shoulder seasons ... theres no avoiding tossing your rope in the dirt for belays

you would go crazy if you worried about it overly ... somehow those people who go all anal about dirty ropes tend to get a different perspective after a few runs up the chief ... ive yet to see someone climb with 12+ pitches with a rope bag ... or someone wash their ropes every week or two, which you would need to do if you climbed multi daily here and worried about dirt

;)

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

A lesson I learned quite some time back.

"It's no fun climbing with Anal Andy!"

Personally I toss the rope on the ground and couldn't give a rats ass about dirt getting on it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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