Rope-strength loss by way of sand/ dirt contamination?
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We have all heard it before, "Dont step on the rope, you will get sand in it and grind all the fibers away!" However, most of us also know no one has ever died because they climbed on a rope that had been stepped on. I understand how abrasive particles could tear through soft material--it's not rocket science. However, is this a tall tale or is there any real proof to show that dirt and sand contamination, under normal-use conditions, can actually reduce the strength of a rope, sling or piece of webbing by a worthwhile amount? |
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Sure, there are a few tests out there showing dirty ropes fatigue quicker than clean ones, there´s even one by the UIAA if I remember correctly. |
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realistically it wont matter ... if you use your ropes alot ... theyll wear out either through falls or blown sheaths before a few steps on the rope |
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I'm less concerned about dirt being ground into the sheath than I am about the sharp rock that might happen to be under the rope when its stepped on... |
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Dirt in the rope reduces the strength by 10.8 percent per each .02 grams of dirt. Where did I get that statistic? I pulled it out of my ass like pretty much all "facts" on climbing forums. Opinions abound. ;-) According to the UIAA the real enemy to your rope is sharp edges no matter how old or dirty it is. |
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Although I don't think dirt will appreciably weaken a rope, I do feel the rope deserves an ultra high level of respect since it plays a critical role in safety. |
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Greg D wrote:Although I don't think dirt will appreciably weaken a rope, I do feel the rope deserves an ultra high level of respect since it plays a critical role in safety. Don't step on it. Keep it clean. Store it properly. Etc...This. Although it might not have a serious effect, it's my life. Not to mention, I hate getting black rope hands. Although the odd accidental step might not be so bad, I'm sure stomping all over is just stupid to even test. |
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OK, I'm dating myself here . . . |
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One more thought. Anyone that climbs in the desert a lot has seen how the sand on ropes can wear through biners exceptionally fast. |
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conversely i challenge anyone to climb alot of moderate multi here in ledgy, muddy, forested squamish and NOT have their rope get dirty ... especially in the shoulder seasons ... theres no avoiding tossing your rope in the dirt for belays |
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A lesson I learned quite some time back. |