Noodle
·
Jul 12, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 195
Me and a buddy are planning on climbing this when he comes to visit from CA in late september. Just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts or conditions on it from recently or not so recently. Anything would help, we also plan on topping it out, thanks! Nick
Not recent... but a very demanding route, more techy and a bit wandering. The direct finish is essential
Noodle
·
Jul 19, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 195
Yeah we are really psyched on it. I'm just wondering how well the anchors are, if some of them still even exist. I'm sure we'll find out. I have the funny feeling it doesn't get climbed all that often.
I did it with my son ~1 year ago and the anchors were in decent shape. There are a number of variations and it can be confusing - to an old man in any case.
It probably gets climbed more often than you think. Did the first 4-5 pitches a week or so ago, looking forward to going back and finishing the route......sooooo gooood! Some shiny new bolts in spots, but also a few crappy pins that look suspect to pop if one were to flail on them. The cruxes are bouldery and can be hard to read. With all of the variation anchors on this route, you can climb the first 8 pitches and rap off with a single 70m.....which is pretty awesome in itself.
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