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Dihedral of Horrors
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 78
votes
Routes in Omega Buttress
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Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4- Easy Snow |
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Cardiac Arêtes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1 |
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Man O' War (Ship's Prow Pillar) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sherm's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 12,500 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on Apr 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Another fun Omega Buttress diversion, though fuller value than Annals of Time. A great day involves climbing Dihedral of Horrors, then rapping in from a tree to Annals of Time's final crux pitch.
P1: 200', 5.7R: Same as for Annals of Time
P2: short, 5.9: Move to the right end of the broad ledge and climb a short dihedral with a 5.9 move into easier terrain, trending right for the obvious dihedral.
P3: 120', 5.9: Full value! A powerful lieback up a flake (3" piece is great!) brings you into an awesome dihedral. Use a variety of jamming and stemming moves to reach a point below the roof. Here, bust a tricky move left and set a semi-hanging belay beneath an obvious crack in the roof.
P4: 70', 5.9: Pull the roof in the finger-sized crack and traverse right underneath the huge diamond-shaped roof (Ship's Prow). Beautiful moves, awesome location.
P1: 200', 5.7R: Same as for Annals of Time
P2: short, 5.9: Move to the right end of the broad ledge and climb a short dihedral with a 5.9 move into easier terrain, trending right for the obvious dihedral.
P3: 120', 5.9: Full value! A powerful lieback up a flake (3" piece is great!) brings you into an awesome dihedral. Use a variety of jamming and stemming moves to reach a point below the roof. Here, bust a tricky move left and set a semi-hanging belay beneath an obvious crack in the roof.
P4: 70', 5.9: Pull the roof in the finger-sized crack and traverse right underneath the huge diamond-shaped roof (Ship's Prow). Beautiful moves, awesome location.
Location
The route is located just to the right of Annals of Time. It's the obvious dihedral capped by the giant roof.
Approach and Descent, see Omega Buttress
Approach and Descent, see Omega Buttress
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