When to retire a rope

So,
I used to be a climber but life got in the way. I moved from Colorado to New York for a post-doc then back to Colorado for a dream job. Its probably been four or so years since I did anything real.

A recent climb of the Grand Teton has rekindled my desire to climb and do moderate alpine technical stuff. My gear is 4-8 years old (draws, ropes, webbing, slings, cord, etc.) I never took falls on my alpine ropes and they have been kept in bins and well treated.

The problem is some of the ropes have a 2005 mark on them, especially my 30 meter ropes. There is no detectable core shot or abrasion. Would you keep using them or should I buy new ones?

Only retire core shot ropes!

I would buy a new lead line, inspect everything thoroughly, and update as needed. Consider the storage of gear seriously, and check out the electric harness acid test. Also, nylon will hold up longer than dynex/spectra.

Edit to add: I have used nylon gear 4-8 years of age with confidence, the key is a good visual inspection.

I've always been told 10 years or so on soft goods that are very well treated, which it sounds like yours are. So if it were me I'd feel pretty good about it...

Jon Marek wrote:inspect everything thoroughly, and update as needed. Also, nylon will hold up longer than dynex/spectra.

+1

+1 on getting a new rope to lead with. Better safe than sorry with your life line. I bet everything else is probably OK.

I'm replacing my main trad/TR/Sport rope but I have a number of smaller ropes for shorter alpine routes. It would cost a small fortune to swap out 3 30-35 meter ropes that have never been fallen on. It feels very good to be getting back into the swing of things.

I just discovered the Tetons and Wind Rivers and think there is a ton of fun to be had with shorter technical but long and snow/glacier covered lines.

It sounds like the age and condition of your ropes is fine, its the length that may be unsuitable (30's for sure). A good 60m-70m multi-rated thin cord (8-9.8mm) for getting back into moderate Alpine like the Tetons or RMNP would be recommended.

Mark Pilate wrote:It sounds like the age and condition of your ropes is fine, its the length that may be unsuitable (30's for sure). A good 60m-70m multi-rated thin cord (8-9.8mm) for getting back into moderate Alpine like the Tetons or RMNP would be recommended.

We used a 7.8 for the grand, it was 60 meters, it was beautifully light. I wasn't afraid of falls as my buddy solos in the 9s and trad climbs in the 11s, too small for a crappy climber like myself though. I'm thinking a Mammut Revelation? My present is a Metolius Monster which is around 11 pounds and heavy, especially when pushing 40 years old.

Ropes are good for up to 15 years per the rope manufacturer Beal. If it passes a visual inspection and you know it has had light usage, you are good to go. Don't replace just cause people say silly things on the interweb.

If you worry about your rope, retire it. Cheap insurance.

10 years is supposed to be the limit.

The reality (backed up by some limited data) is that climbing ropes don't break. If it's not core shot, you can use it. Most people choose to be more conservative.

At the very least, use it for top rope.

I would have zero problems leading on it. Ropes wear out due to use or mistreatment, not age.

Steve Williams wrote:If you worry about your rope, retire it. Cheap insurance.

No offense Steve, comments like these are worthless. I always worry about my rope. He just needs some information as to how long a rope can be"in use" and in storage.

If you want a scientific basis for making your decision, read through the UIAA's "About Ageing of Climbing Ropes"

Document

David G. wrote:If you want a scientific basis for making your decision, read through the UIAA's "About Ageing of Climbing Ropes" Document

Very useful article. My ropes have had a very sheltered, hefty sack enclosed, dry box packaged life since I left Boulder over three years ago. Since I've only fallen on friends ropes I may well just swap out the heavy rope for weight.

Ryan Morse wrote:Read any report regarding Todd Skinners death. How many days of work is your life worth.

did he die from rope failure?

gotta luv MPers who use deaths to promote their own viewpoints on something thats unrelated

hmmmm ....

climbing.com/climber/loss-o…
Todd's unfortunate death was a result of webbing failure at a worn belay loop.

Not rope failure.

Read the article?

Excuse me, Greg D, but it is a valid viewpoint.
One can buy a rope for a bit over $100.
That's pretty cheap. How much is YOUR life worth?

I have no idea whether you should trust your rope but if you do decide to retire it I'll pay shipping for you to send it to me. I'll fall on it all day long. Wow don't you feel better now that some random dude who has never met you or your rope says its good to go?

Steve Williams wrote:Excuse me, Greg D, but it is a valid viewpoint. One can buy a rope for a bit over $100. That's pretty cheap. How much is YOUR life worth?

The problem with this logic is that it's entirely subjective, non-actionable, and a slippery slope. You can *always* say something like "Any doubt, replace it. How much is your life worth?".

I took a fall on a cam. --> Replace it. How much is your life worth?
I got some tree sap on my rope. --> Replace it...
My rope once looked at a car battery funny. --> Replace it...

The point of these threads it to try to get some sort of objective and actionable criteria. Granted, it would be better coming from experts, but experienced climbers do have something to offer.

Bottom line on this, though. I challenge anyone to find an accident report involving an old rope that was in otherwise good condition breaking. In the absence of evidence that it could happen and with manufacturers generally saying 10-15 years, I say go for it.

^yep

My car doesn't have 10 airbags --> replace it. Your life is worth $25k, right?