My fiance and I will be in Toronto in a couple weeks for a conference, and we want to sample some climbing in the area. Can anyone recommend a good sport crag within a day's drive? Would love to have quality directions and/or GPS coordinates as well!
If you've got time for a 3- or 4-hour drive then Lion's Head on Georgian Bay (Lake Huron) is probably the best sports crag in Ontario. Climbing there is quite adventurous as most of the climbs are accessed from above via rappel to a hanging belay.
There's also nice climbing at Metcalfe and Old Baldy, about 2 or 3 hours away.
Closer to Toronto there's Mt. Nemo, Kelso, Buffalo Crag and Rattlesnake Point. But I'd only go there if you don't have time to drive further.
Rockclimbing.com has a fair selection of route descriptions. Or you could try to find a copy of Oates & Bracken, "A Sport Climber's Guide to Ontario Limestone" (1997).
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