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Any good (?) 5.9 ish crack route in front range?

Original Post
JShin · · Centennial, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 165

I am going to climb Mt. Stuart via north ridge and this includes two 5.9 pitches.( 60 feet 1"~2" crack and 35 feet 3 1/2" crack).

I'd like to try 5.9ish crack as many as possible before I hit.

Jason Killgore · · boulder, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

The first 5.9 pitch on NR stuart is pretty easy (and incredibly classic), and somewhat eldo-esque. Many of the corner cracks / roof turns on yellow spur seem similar to me. Also maybe curving crack in Boulder Canyon. I feel like NR was short sections of nice jams and laybacks followed by huge rests.

The 2nd pitch is a bit harder, and a bit more thuggish. Think maybe the ruper crack. Turkey foot crack in S. Platte has some similar sizes, but is much more sustained. If you find turkey leg easy, the NR of Stuart will be a cruise (at least in terms of technical cruxes).

It has been 10 years or so since I climbed NR, so I could be a little fuzzy.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. Werk Supp 2nd pitch, Blind Faith (crack itself if 5.9 with a harder exit move) both in Eldorado. Center Route on Cynical, Gobblers Grunt at Turkey Rocks. Ton's of 5.9 cracks at Lumpy.

doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

2nd for Gobblers Grunt..Locksmith..Cosmosis..

benjaminh · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2005 · Points: 0

Georges tree on the book at lumpy ridge... Lots of fun and harder than it looks

Jason Killgore · · boulder, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

i cannot think of many lumpy pitches that compared with the style and grade of the NR cruxes. My lumpy experience is still pretty limited though.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

Lumpy cracks because of the flaired nature do climb different then your typical crack. However if you want to get good at 5.9 cracks Lumpy a good place to learn, you just can't jam in and pull you'll have to think about the best way to set the jam.

Jason Killgore · · boulder, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

Lumpy is a great place to learn to climb at lumpy :)

JShin · · Centennial, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 165

Jason, Tombo, Benjamin, and Doug... Thanks a lot and I will try these.
Meantime, if anybody has a plan to do some crack climbing and need a partner, please let me know.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

The first pitch of the gendarme is about 60 feet and is a good 5.9 with feet outside of the crack at parts. The second pitch is around 100 feet at least and has some wider parts. I don't know how hard you climb, but the N. Ridge of Stuart is not a good place to not feel solid on 5.9 cracks. Also I don't know if you'll be splitting it into 2 days, but you need to be climbing very quickly if you want to finish it in a long day. I've done the route twice and the first day was 19 hours car to car, and the second was 14 from ingalls lake and back. Both times I either soloed or simuled large sections of the route. I have a blog post here if you want to see a trip report and some pics

climbingandlife.blogspot.co…

I'd say go to vedauwoo to prep. Lots of good 5.9 crack there. The first pitch of the gendarme felt simlar to plumb line, crime and punishment, or first pitch of Friday the 13th. Second pitch felt more like Baobob tree or intimidation at blair. I think a good climb to do some laps on to get ready for stuart would be screw at the valley massif, it has a little bit of everything on it. Also ed's crack would be good too.

The N. Ridge is for sure one of the best climbs I've ever been on! Good luck!

Travkrack · · Alaska · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5

East of Eden is a sweet long 5.9 route up the Poudre Canyon. One of my favorites, make sure you bring two 60 meter ropes for the rappel, or you can make it with one 70 meter rope. Definitely worth hitting up. FYI Vedauwoo is pretty sweet, but the ratings out there are pretty stiff.

JShin · · Centennial, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 165

Jacob, Thanks for you info and you have a great blog. I like it.

JacobD wrote:The second pitch is around 100 feet at least and has some wider parts
I maybe wrong but was told the second pitch is shorter than 1st pitch and it is OW crack. Also there are confusions on the 2nd pitch. Some folks climb all the way top of the Gendarme, rap down and climb again. Other are traverse and climb. Which one is better way?
JShin · · Centennial, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 165
Travkrack wrote:East of Eden is a sweet long 5.9 route up the Poudre Canyon. One of my favorites, make sure you bring two 60 meter ropes for the rappel, or you can make it with one 70 meter rope. Definitely worth hitting up. FYI Vedauwoo is pretty sweet, but the ratings out there are pretty stiff.
Any plans in Vedauwoo or Poudre Canyon? I can provide a ride, a good belay, and some beers~ Thanks for your info.
Travkrack · · Alaska · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5
DeJay wrote: Any plans in Vedauwoo or Poudre Canyon? I can provide a ride, a good belay, and some beers~ Thanks for your info.
No plans right now, i've been looking for a climbing partner though. I have a open schedule all the time. I think hitting Vedauwoo would be a good option. Hit the 5.7 Edwards Crack and couple 9's out there. lemme know yo. deeppow88@hotmail.com
Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

The Martyr outside of Co Springs. Best route I did in the Front Range, I think.

mountainproject.com/v/the-m…

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806
DeJay wrote:Jacob, Thanks for you info and you have a great blog. I like it. I maybe wrong but was told the second pitch is shorter than 1st pitch and it is OW crack. Also there are confusions on the 2nd pitch. Some folks climb all the way top of the Gendarme, rap down and climb again. Other are traverse and climb. Which one is better way?
Both times I've done it I've climbed straight up the gendarme. I know what your talking about though with the rap. After the gendarme I just downclimbed and kept going. There is a short rap that goes to the right of the gendarme to keep the grade down, but the gendarme is awesome. Doing the full pitch to the top of the gendarme is pretty sweet if you are solid at the grade. It doesn't stay wide for that long, but expect some rope drag if going to the top. I led it with my backpack on last time, and it didn't get in the way much, not really true wide stuff, just shoving your arms in deeper and getting some heel toes. Nothing you actually have to get into.
Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

Detailed Beta for the NR of Stuart: ericandlucie.com/Website200…

JShin · · Centennial, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 165
Eric and Lucie wrote:Detailed Beta for the NR of Stuart: ericandlucie.com/Website200…
Thanks Eric & Lucie, This is the most detailed beta I've read since I am taking exactly same route.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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