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sport multi-pitch climbs

Original Post
big tuna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I have been climbing on the wasatch front for the last couple years and have never experienced a multi-pitch climb and really want to give it a go. I am looking for advice on good climbs to try (sport); I am interested in trying anything from a fun 5.8 to a fair 5.10a/b. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Mr. Hummus · · SLC, Utah · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 37

Squawstruck in Rock Canyon. Do the first 8 pitches and you can rap back down with a 60 or 70. Very closely bolted. The whole 22 pitch route goes at 5.11, but the first 8 pitches
In southern Utah there are great moderate multipitch sport routes at prophesy wall. Also at snow canyon there is a great 10c called Living on the Edge. 4 stars!

jeffozozo · · santa clara, utah · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 536

I'd suggest a trip to the city of rocks. Steinfell's dome has a nice moderate climb called Sinocranium, with really easy first 5 pitches, then a really exposed, exciting 5.8 pitch and a nice summit. Two easy raps off the back side and a short hike back to your packs.

mountainproject.com/v/sinoc…

Next to this is Theater of Shadows -- also a great, easy multi-pitch.

mountainproject.com/v/theat…

Theater of shadows boasts an amazing free rappel off the top.

Gary Taylor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 11

How about "Betty's Altered Elbow" in Altered States Gully of Little Cottonwood?

Dallas McLellan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

Pick up James Garrett's West Desert guidebook and there are some easy multipitch routes at the blob area.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Gary Taylor wrote:How about "Betty's Altered Elbow" in Altered States Gully of Little Cottonwood?
Early morning might be fine. That route gets some sun. Fun gig, though. Not sure I'd really call it a sport route, per se.

I think there's a couple of shorter multi pitch routes in the Storm Mountain area. Mule Hollow Wall has a couple. Devil's Castle might work but I wouldn't suggest it as a first multi pitch venue.

City of Rocks and/or Castle Rocks has great multi pitch routes. Any Pogue route.
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Maple Canyon has about a dozen multi-pitch routes 5.10 ish or easier. All in the new Mape guide.

John Ross · · Wasatch Front, UT · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,580

Rock Canyon really gets overlooked for multi-pitch bolted sport routes. There are at least 17 multi-pitch routes that are in your range. Search MP for the routes here. Mornings and evenings probably best for most of these routes during the hot summer months.

scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

Devils Castle at alta has a slew of sport multi's. Close to the city and fun, Protable Darkness is the easiest route and well bolted the whole way.

big tuna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Amamzing! Thanks for the input everyone, I really appreicate the advice and recommendations! I look forward to getting in to multipitch clilmbs! As for the trad climbing, I dont have the rack or the "G" to spend on one. One day I will graduate, but until then I have pleanty of sport routes to explore.

big tuna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I dont know how I missed this tool but the route search engine is amazing! Thanks!

John Ross wrote:Rock Canyon really gets overlooked for multi-pitch bolted sport routes. There are at least 17 multi-pitch routes that are in your range. Search MP for the routes here. Mornings and evenings probably best for most of these routes during the hot summer months.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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