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The Trough, Tahquitz

Original Post
James Bellamy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

I just got done leading the trough but I think I started in the wrong area.

The place I started had two cracks up above. Both looked in similar difficulty. I chose the one on the left.

The crack on the right was this crack:
mountainproject.com/v/10782…

Alternate start: left side splitter crack and squeeze chimney. Approach from below, instead of traversing left from Jam Crack and Dave's Deviation. It's fun, adds 40+ feet of good splitter and a squeeze. It's not 5.4, but neither is the trough ;-)

I don't have a picture of the crack on the left. While leading it, I discovered I was soon above the "5.4" rating that the route is known for. I know Tahquitz is sandbagged, but this was definitely not 5.4.

The crack led up to a left facing dihedral, that had thin fingers with no feet. I slammed a small TCU and went out on the face, bypassing the corner with what felt like 5.7 to 5.8 moves I have done in the past.

I have done some looking but can't find this crack anywhere on the topo and wondered if anyone else has climbed this, and what the actual rating is, or if it has a name?

Thanks!

Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270

James, I'm quite certain I started this way once after not finding the trough start. I thought that finger splitter in the picture here was real nice and harder than trough p1. I remember thinking 5.7, protected great and difficulty over fairly quick. I remember 4th class climbing higher than the trough start before we roped up right at the base of the this crack.

I suppose it may be 5.6 relative to the rest Tahquitz grades. I haven't seen it in the books or here on MP. Again, I thought it was really nice.

EDIT: I climbed the crack in the picture. I'm now confused after following your link to the same picture in your post.

James Bellamy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

The crack I climbed is not pictured. It is simply about 50 to 100' left of the crack pictured. It is more of a dihedral than a crack I guess.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

James... if you are 50-100 left of the Trough, your not doing the Trough, there are many many roots left. it's hard to understand your Q.

The deal Justiin is climbing I think it's Trough direct... about 5.6 or 5.7 is correct.

James Bellamy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

After the first pitch I had to step down and to the right to gain the trough. So pitches 2 and 3 were on track

James Bellamy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10
Left Crack

After revisiting the area the other day, I had a friend lead the same crack in question. It's in the photograph above on the left (highlighted with the hard to see blue and red line). We felt pretty confident that the crux section was in the 5.8 range - but in the spirit of Tahquitz, we called it 5.7+

Has anyone climbed this crack before and does it have a name? The crack everyone else has climbed and pictured originally is just to the right of the highlighted one.

The trough continues up and to the right above the crack in the right side of the photo (not the highlighted one).

The trough can still be reached from the highlighted crack, by traversing on a ledge to the right and stepping down (low 5th).
James Bellamy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

And to Justin,

We both led the crack on the right too and felt it was 5.7 also. You are right about the difficulties being over quick. I did manage to get my left knee stuck for a bit on the mantel exit.

Samaki Kubwa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Though not intending to climb this alternative, we began this "Direct Start" to the Trough today. Embarrassed to say I popped off at, or neat, the crux. The protection was solid, but with not expecting to have any problems, I ran it out a bit. I had some minor air time and now have some small route rash to show for it. We simply traversed over to the regular Trough and completely enjoyed the remainder of the pitches.

Now having enjoyed a burrito and a shower, I wish I had just gotten back on the Direct. Recently heard of a friend getting off on another route and into some serious trouble so I probably psyched myself out and used it as an excuse to go for what was known over what was not.

There was at least one fixed pin, a few feet below the hardest part, which is shortly before it joins up with the regular Trough route (right after the friction slab near the top of first pitch).

All this to say, the Direct Start is great, and:

1) Direct Start is probably 5.8, but I'm not great at grades, so maybe it's 5.2 or .10b ;-)
2) The remainder of the Trough is a surprisingly fun route for the grade. While there are too many other great routes to just repeat this for fun, I would gladly bring new leaders to test themselves on it.
3) Logging air time on such a moderate (easy, really) route is a reminder to keep safe and not take anything for granted.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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