New England boulders

I am looking for my first 7c+/8a boulder in the New England area, any suggestions? I usually prefer crimpy vertical/slightly overhanging problems that aren't many moves.

So far I've considered, "Fotawa sds", "pressure drop", "halcyon", "confident man"....

We use V grades here, son ;)

Mercury in Retro, Desiel, The claw - IcePond
Fotowa, Filter (v8), - GB
Satan on a Half & Sister- Rumney
Speed of Life, Babies with Rabies, Pipe Dreams, Stereogram, many more (been too long) - Farley
Over The Waterfall - PA
Bradely CT has some 9/10's as well...

But basically you should just start bouldering at Farley... more then enough to help you break into the grades.

CaptainMo wrote:Mercury in Retro, Desiel, The claw - IcePond Fotowa, Filter (v8), - GB Satan on a Half & Sister- Rumney Speed of Life, Babies with Rabies, Pipe Dreams, Stereogram, many more (been too long) - Farley Over The Waterfall - PA Bradely CT has some 9/10's as well... But basically you should just start bouldering at Farley... more then enough to help you break into the grades.

I've always heard Fotowa stand as a v9 and the sit as a v11, same with filter v9, Babies is a "cave" climb that doesn't cater to my injured rotator cuff, I do like Pipe dreams but I am kinda looking for something that isn't a compression climb.

I live near Farley so I know it rather well, any idea what other v10's you re thinking of? The only non highball/cave problem I can think of is Scarab. I want something I can work on my own without needing 4/5 spotters like speed of life and party wolf.

Thanks for the Suggestions Mo!

Ah yes... Scarab!!!! That's the one I was trying to think of... never got it but, got so freakin' close... over and over and over! There's the graffiti wall and kung fu areas over at Bradley that have got a bunch of stacked problems in the V9/10 range and I got projs to get on around Danbury, CT. When the fall comes around I can show you some sic stuff around Bald Rock. Satan up in NH doesn't require a spot really... u just have to have a few pads to cover the ankle breaker rock just under the crux and climb under control.

There's the Y2K roof in Mass u probably know of... It's been quite a while since I was crushin V9 so a lot of it has slipped from my memory. Have you done the Ice Pond stuff? HQ and solid climbing...

OCD roof in Mystic area (on this site) looks good but is compression and looks shoulder tweaky.

Patuckaway has some great harder lines too, Blaow (sp?) is a great short one move wonder. There are others too. . . but I can't rememeber for the life of me. Shylo (echoinfi on here) would know as well.

Oh and then there's that V11 over at the Owls Lair that Yagmin put up... you should talk to him. He would know where they all are...

I have brucitus in shoulder, tendonitis in my arms, and something majorly messed up in my fingers so my days of climbing that hard are few and far inbetween and on very specific stuff so I know what a pain it can be!

bradley has the prow v10, busted shadow v11, hong kong phooey v9. I second everything that CaptainMo has said!

bowshaaa wrote:bradley has the prow v10, busted shadow v11, hong kong phooey v9. I second everything that CaptainMo has said!

I've wanted to get on hong kong, how do you get there from underground vibes?

josh villeneuve wrote: I've wanted to get on hong kong, how do you get there from underground vibes?

It's on the far side in the Kung Fu area... down by the road.

Satan on a Half Shell/Satan's Sister Sally at Rumney is/are excellent. My first and only "real" V10. Good intro to the grade, IMO, thanks to a flat landing and jug start.

Halcyon is amazing but it's basically compression after a V4 intro. Brett's Mom at P'way gets V10 in the guide, but I'd put it closer to V8. It's an excellent problem either way.

If it were me, I would go to Farley so I could get on Scarab, Speed, Party Wolf, Terrordactyl, and like 30 more classics. If you do try for Speed, I've got excellent spotting beta for you.

Lanky wrote:Satan on a Half Shell/Satan's Sister Sally at Rumney is/are excellent. My first and only "real" V10. Good intro to the grade, IMO, thanks to a flat landing and jug start. Halcyon is amazing but it's basically compression after a V4 intro. Brett's Mom at P'way gets V10 in the guide, but I'd put it closer to V8. It's an excellent problem either way. If it were me, I would go to Farley so I could get on Scarab, Speed, Party Wolf, Terrordactyl, and like 30 more classics. If you do try for Speed, I've got excellent spotting beta for you.

+1 for Terrodactyle, that thing is rad...sketchy slab topouts haha, I was walking by when a friend of mine was doing party wolf, it took 4 other locals to spot him. I want to do both climbs but I don't want my first to be a highball, I tend to punt off everything!!

Another farley one that is easy to work on your own is sneaky bird, the sit to tweaky bird

Eric8 wrote:Another farley one that is easy to work on your own is sneaky bird, the sit to tweaky bird

I've literally never seen that thing dry haha, thanks for the suggestion!

At P-way you've got:

Stegosaurus- Split Boulder
Headz Ain't Ready- Boulder X (really needs a couple pads and spotters)
Uncle Climax- Swirley boulder (spotters a good idea)
Expanding Man-Method boulder
Check your Head-Cliff boulders

There is also a handfull of other V9s, some highball, some less aesthetic. V9 is tough at P-way in that most of the best lines are V8 or V11, really not a bunch of V9 and V10 routes

Pway

Blaow V10 ...if you are looking for not many moves that's it...one move

Check your head V9/V11 sit - save it for late fall when it's cool

Stegasaurus V9 - several different beta options, slightly overhung

There's also another one the I believe is V9ish on the back side of the balance boulder that fits your slightly overhung crimpy few moves description.

Also at Rumney - Devastating Reverend John V10/11 at the pound...crimpy, slightly overhung

freezeus wrote:Pway Blaow V10 ...if you are looking for not many moves that's it...one move Check your head V9/V11 sit - save it for late fall when it's cool Stegasaurus V9 - several different beta options, slightly overhung There's also another one the I believe is V9ish on the back side of the balance boulder that fits your slightly overhung crimpy few moves description. Also at Rumney - Devastating Reverend John V10/11 at the pound...crimpy, slightly overhung

Thanks, that's really the type of stuff I've been looking for, I've been wanting to get on stegosaurus for awhile now, it really looks like a lot of fun.

Blaow really seems to fit the bill for what I am looking for.

I tried to find the v9 on the balance boulder at night haha no luck but ill have to check it out again.

Wow, Devastating Reverend John looks freakin perfect!!! Thanks

It's The Devastating Reverend Tom, not John. A little eliminate-y, but not bad.

Minion is the problem on the Balance Boulder, and it's a total pile.

I'll agree with V9/10 being a bit of a blank spot in P'way's repertoire, but if there's also Revolution and Mr. Natural at Boulder Natural. Both within spitting distance of Blaow.

I knew it was devastating reverend something...

There's also that slightly impossible seam traverse that leads into the V1 crack at the blackjack boulders Zig Zag crack variation - V9...I watched it spit my son off a couple times last year and just around the corner Pyramid Power is a classic though not the grade you want. Also Waiting for No One V9 might fit you bill of a couple hard crimpy moves to a juggy finish.

I've gotten on that zig zag variation, felt hard without any beta.

I am heading up to Pawtuckaway tonight to session Blaow and the nearby stuff, hopefully these will go smoothly!!!!!

Bring backyard fogger...fog around Blaow and stego(especially in under the split boulder where its rather moist.. then wait 5 minutes and have 2-3 hours almost bug free! We climbed there last Sunday and it was dry, and with the area fogged no biting bugs! There were also no people which was odd as it was 70's breezy and dry...

Pretty decent session last night, definitely plan on doing late night over early morning for now on, the change in humidity around 2am was really apparent.

Got on Blaow...at first it felt impossible until I found which feet I wanted to use. Then I consistently kept overshooting the lip hahaha, it suites me really well so thanks to everyone who suggested it. Cant wait to head back!

Brett was totally soaked

Revolution felt much harder but possible

Didn't really check out Mr. N because I wasnt sure of the exact start

Stegosaurus felt really freakin harddd, gotta sort my beta out

I can't for the life of me understand where minion or Anasazi start, if someone can help me out with that I would be much appreciated. I am always looking for it when its dark and there never really seems to be any chalk