Breaking a leg at Red Rock
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Its Monday morning at 8:45 am June 24th in Red Rock. The last few days have been 100+ degrees and the coming weekend was forecasted to have 115 degree temperatures. But this morning, the sky was nearly totally overcast and with a bit of wind, it felt like it was 75 degrees. It appeared that the climbing gods had blessed us with wonderful day of climbing amidst this brutal heat, that was only bound to get worse in the coming months. It would probably be our last day climbing at Red Rock for until fall comes around. |
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I know it is brutally hot right now, but if there are any good samaritans that happens to be in the area, I would like to request that you retrieve whatever gear you are able to save for me, and I will be glad to reward you for your efforts :) (Although I will not be back in Vegas for a couple weeks after the surgery on Monday) |
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Wow, thanks for sharing. Awesome job keeping your heads clear and self-rescuing, it sounds like you did a lot of things right. Those are some great friends to carry you out. |
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Daniel Winder wrote: Wow, thanks for sharing. Awesome job keeping your heads clear and self-rescuing, it sounds like you did a lot of things right. Those are some great friends to carry you out. I would like to make a couple of points however. It sounds like you fell farther than expected not because of extended draws but because of rope stretch, some normal slack in the system, and possibly a dynamic belay. Communicating with the belayer that you are downclimbing and a fall is likely might have shortened your fall distance. Your story also highlights the need to be very aware of objective hazards and to try to minimize them, especially on multipitch trad. Getting off route on climbs that are at your limit is usually bad. Perhaps you could have lowered back to the correct belay or just suffered a hanging belay mid route. It sounds like you are fairly inexperienced at this type of climbing and your friends are even more so. This might not be the proper context to push your limits. Glad your gonna be ok, and at least it was at the end of the season. Rehab and come back stronger than ever in the fall.You may be quite right regarding where the extra slack came from and I definitely will be paying more attention to those potential hazards. You are also correct in my experience, as well as my friends and although I feel like I have enough technical knowledge to at least attempt these routes, having the experience of being in various situations and how best to continue moving safely is definitely something that I need to work on (by working more easier routes). Thanks for the tips! |
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Hey first off; I hope your surgery goes well and a good and speedy recovery, and while this question may better be suited to the injuries forum. I was curious about you turniqueting a broken bone. Why does it help and where did you learn it? |
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I think tourniquet might be kind of a misnomer. It's not cutting blood flow. Sounds more like an improvised splint to keep the bone in place. |
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Oh, I feel dumb, should have thought of that. |
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Gear Ransom
Today Nick H. and I retrieved the items in the picture below. In order to get these items back we request the following: 1. Get well soon! 2. You shall one day find and return and/or retrieve someone elses gear. 3. When number 1 has been completed reclaim your send on Five Pack. 4. Two tropical smoothies one for each of us! Anything in addition we leave to your discretion. Gear Ransom Trip Report Red Rocks, NV Pine Creek Magic Mountain Five Pack 5.10b 4 pitches 500 feet - 1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen The Plan Sunday, June 30, after reading Edward's post I talked to Nick when we met up to climb. I asked Nick if he wanted to go retrieve some gear. He told me he had also read the same post and was interested. The plan was set to climb Thursday June 4. The Climb We arrived at the pine creek parking lot at 0630 and made it to the base of the climb at 0710. We saw two ropes hanging in the vicinity of the climb. We planned to climb in blocks I would lead the first two and Nick would lead the second two. The temperature was approximately 100 degrees luckily we were in the shade the whole time and had a little wind. Pitch one went easily. Pitch two I came ended up climbing beyond the ropes later seeing them below on a ledge. I climbed to high on the second pitch couldnt find a belay put two pieces of gear told Nick to take and then lower me. He lowered me to a location where I was able to put in two cams, 00 mastercam and 0 mastercam. I also found a location for a not so great .5 BD C4. Nick climbed up to me we moved the belay to a better crack. Nick single rope rapped coiled one rope and tossed it. He cleaned the gear anchor left and coiled the second rope and then climbed back up to me. Pitch three Nick took off climbed up and followed the gear left behind. He cleaned all the gear and then down climbed. He then took the proper route to the base of the fourth pitch but had the rope get stuck at the traverse and then down climbed again. At the top of pitch three we reorganized the gear and then Nick trailed the tag line and took off. The descent was simple we did a double rope rap down Edge of Sun and then one more to the base. On the way out we noticed there was another rope still hanging there. We packed our gear and then spent approximately one hour mad bushwhacking (a little taste of it in the picture below) trying to relocate the rope we had tossed. We gave up and on the way out Nick said he would look one more time. He found it! Success! Bushwhacking The Aftermath We drove over to tropical smoothie and ordered two large smoothies. I went with the Pomegranate Plunge and Nick the Kiwi Quencher. There is another rope still there...it wasn't near the gear and we did not even see it until we got off the route. Hopefully we got everything. |
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You guys are freaking... AWESOME! I love MP and the community here! Im glad we were able to get in contact via email and once I return, I will be happy to meet up and work out a deal regarding the hostage situation :P |
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Man, that's a horrible story told very well. I hope you heal up soon. |
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that's so super cool that these guys retrieved your gear... totally excellent bros |
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Get well soon Edward! Awesome job Mostafa n Nick on getting the gear. |
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So cool. Love the report |